tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48430128230620698912024-02-19T10:43:43.237-05:00Pandamajik Hobbiespandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-19389315541147247422015-04-10T03:44:00.000-04:002015-04-27T02:35:59.914-04:00Steak and Thomas Keller Inspired Meals<span style="font-family: inherit;">I had an urge of inspiration lately and wanted to cook some ambitious meals. I recently had some good news about my career and wanted to celebrate so I thought a nice steak would be fitting.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The first meal I cooked was centered around a ribeye I got from a local butcher, Cooper Bros. This is a local butcher that was founded about a year ago in Lexington, KY. The ribeye I got was $23.99/lb which is pricey but it's locally sourced and is supposed to be really good. I talked to the butcher and he suggested that next time I should look into getting "chuck steak" which is similar to ribeye but a much cheaper cut.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I also had some Ricotta and Parmesean which I got to make some <a href="http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2015/04/ricotta-and-black-pepper-gnudi-spotted-pig-april-bloomfield-recipe.html" target="_blank">gnudi</a> but it turned into a huge mushy mess much to my chagrin. I don't have any good pictures of the mess but when I cooked the gnudi in water it pretty much disintegrated. I tried making it again a few days later after putting the leftover uncooked gnudi in the freezer and just sautéing it in some butter and not bothering with boiling it in water. It turned out much better this way with the outside being slightly brown while the inside was nice and soft and oh so cheesy.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Here's the ribeye. You can see the really nice marbling throughout.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I wanted to make this in a way to highlight the natural flavor so I used just kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper. I seasoned it about 2 hours before I cooked it after having it sit out for about 2 hours to help temper it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I cooked this on a gas grill which was at a temperature of about 350F inside. I checked the internal temperature of the steak, turned it twice, and took it off the grill when it hit an internal temperature of 130F. I then let it rest for about 10 minutes before slicing it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I made some sweet potatoes and Brussels sprouts as sides. The ribeye was sliced against the grain which makes it taste much more tender:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I also made some Béarnaise sauce since I've read that it's the only fitting sauce for a nice steak. I haven't made many sauces and not even Hollandaise so this was a challenge for me. It turned out alright but after I took it off the burner for about 10 minutes (so I could plate and get ready to take pictures) it separated which stressed me out a lot. I was seriously about to just throw the sauce out and just throw my hands in the air in frustration. Then I found this <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tfN--AotmE" target="_blank">video</a> (the video is for Hollandaise but it applies to Béarnaise since Béarnaise is directly related to the mother sauce of Hollandaise) and managed to rescue the sauce.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Here it is paired with a nice Old Fashioned made with Four Roses Yellow Label. I forgot to buy oranges so there's no orange peel as a garnish. I'm quite happy with the photography of this meal.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The next night I based the meal around Thomas Keller recipes. I started off with something I've been wanting to make for a few years: Ratatouille. Technically it's called Confit Byaldi but the version that a lot of people are familiar with is the version you see in Pixar's Ratatouille. Well, what actually happened is that Brad Bird had Thomas Keller as a consultant for the film and asked him to make a version of the French dish Ratatouille that would look more stunning on screen. Confit byaldi was first documented by Michel Guérard but modified by Thomas Keller in his 1999 cookbook, The French Laundry Cookbook.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I followed <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.justasdelish.com%2Fratatouilles-ratatouile-confit-byaldi%2F&ei=S34nVeTxBcuYsAW5_oCwBA&usg=AFQjCNFVJiig78DMkKBzYR9d8x9IsbdypQ&sig2=czAP1f7WT8uiE7jDAKD64w&bvm=bv.90491159,d.b2w" target="_blank">this recipe</a>. Here's a picture of me slicing the Asian eggplant with my Chinese cleaver. If I were to make this again I'd probably invest in a mandolin slicer. I'm also planning on getting a good knife soon as the Chinese cleaver isn't as precise as I'd like.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The piperade:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Before going in the oven:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Fresh out of the oven:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Here's my plating of the confit byaldi with the vinagrette. I'm just recently getting into elevating my plating and I think it's an OK attempt but could use a bit more work.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Slightly more "artsy" picture:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I also did a roasted chicken which is one of the things Thomas Keller is known for.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Roasted chicken and confit byaldi:</span><br />
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<br />pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-47235020408796962612015-04-10T03:04:00.000-04:002015-04-10T03:55:15.879-04:00Samsung 220WM RepairI've been absent for quite some time due to some major changes going on with my life and career path. I may expound more on that in the future but suffice it to say I think it's a good direction for me.<br />
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About a year and a half ago I started noticing some issues with my Samsung 220WM LCD monitor which I purchased Fall of 2007. It served me well but it started having issues turning on sometimes. Then a year ago it stopped turning on at all at which point I went to Best Buy and purchased a LG 23EA63 LED monitor.<br />
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I recall reading on reddit at some point about someone repairing an old broken monitor by replacing some blown capacitors. I'm not sure why it's taken this long but a couple of weeks ago I decided to disassemble my broken Samsung monitor to see if I could identify any blown capacitors.<br />
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I started off by removing the desk mount which is held in by 4 screws, then proceeded to pry open the plastic bezel. I did this using some metal putty knives (the ones you use to patch up your drywall). At first I was pretty scared of breaking the plastic but you can actually be pretty rough with it. I started off at the bottom corners, worked my way up the sides a bit, then opened up the entire bottom edge before working my way all the way around.<br />
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Here's what it looks like after removing the plastic bezels:<br />
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Close-up of the front bezel:<br />
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And here's what the back looks like with the bezels removed:<br />
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This is the ribbon that goes to the back:<br />
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The board on the left side (looking from the back)<br />
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The main board, the one that contains the power supply:<br />
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A picture of some of the connector from the speakers for reference:<br />
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The main board flipped over:<br />
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It was tough to remove the connector from the main board so I disconnected it from the other board:<br />
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Main board disconnected:<br />
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A close-up of the main board. Here you can see some of the blown capacitors which are bulging on the top. A majority of the capacitors are made by Su'scon which is a Taiwanese company. I did some research and found the site Badcaps.net.<br />
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They have a list of <a href="http://badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=388" target="_blank">Bad Caps</a> and also <a href="http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414" target="_blank">Good Caps</a><br />
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I used the list of Good Caps as a guide when searching for new caps on <a href="http://www.digikey.com/" target="_blank">DigiKey</a><br />
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Here's the new capacitors I ordered. I opted to replace a total of 13 capacitors even though only 3 were bulging. I figured for less than $10 I could replace all of them and not have to worry about some other capacitors failing in a few months.<br />
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Here's a list of the ones I ordered:<br />
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(2) <a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0/1189-1072-ND" target="_blank">1000uF 10V Rubycon</a><br />
(2) <a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0/565-3891-ND" target="_blank">680uF 25V United Chemi-con</a><br />
(2) <a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0/565-3889-ND" target="_blank">470uF 25V United Chemi-con</a><br />
(3) <a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0/493-3275-ND" target="_blank">47uF 25V Nichicon</a><br />
(3) <a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0/1189-1548-1-ND" target="_blank">220uF 16V Rubycon</a><br />
(1) <a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0/493-1767-ND" target="_blank">10uF 16V Nichicon</a><br />
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First capacitor removed:<br />
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All 13 capacitors removed:<br />
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Some of the capacitors<br />
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The capacitors soldered. I left all the leads in until I was done so I could snip them together. The last time I soldered anything was when I was in elementary school when my grandpa on my mom's side taught me. It took a couple tries to solder the first capacitor but I got the hang of it pretty quickly. It's so satisfying when you get a nice solder and it just wicks nicely.<br />
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The front side of the board with everything soldered. The board is tilted up because of the leads still in the back.<br />
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With the leads trimmed the board now sites flat.<br />
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All the parts ready to be re-assembled.<br />
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Halfway through re-assembly. At this point I hooked it up to my computer to test if it worked. It was a huge relief when it powered on and showed my desktop! I wanted to make sure it worked before snapping the bezel back together since that was honestly the hardest part of the disassembly.<br />
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Apparently Foxconn was involved in the making of this monitor:<br />
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Double monitor setup!<br />
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<br />pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-58332098173005634022013-12-20T14:45:00.001-05:002013-12-20T15:01:09.124-05:00End Grain Cutting BoardThis project was started over Thanksgiving break since I would be at my parent's house for about a week and had access to a table saw and a few other tools. I started off by doing a lot of research into how to go about making this since this is technically my first woodworking project.<br />
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The popular choices for woods seems to be maple and walnut as they're both hard and the two woods contrast nicely. I got some lumber from a local shop and ended up spending about $50 on enough to make 2 cutting boards. Plans ended up changing but more on that in a bit. I got the boards planed down to about 1 1/4" thick at the lumber shop since I don't have a planer and they charge $3 per piece which isn't too bad of a price.<br />
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I started off making a design for the cutting board using some pretty nifty software called <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lastalias.com%2Fcbdesigner%2F&ei=dZi0UtmxIqa0ygGso4HYBQ&usg=AFQjCNGVXnLXcxvCBCqMBbfnUZjCFet6xw&sig2=ExblVTfkgfnT-jUuHd39Rw&bvm=bv.58187178,d.aWc">CBDesigner</a>. The only disclaimer is that I had a hard time trying to get it to work on my Windows 7 machine but we have an old Windows XP machine back home that ran it perfectly. This program lets you plan out your cutting board where you can alternate different woods of varying thicknesses. It'll tell you how much wood you need based on table saw blade kerf and other information. It really came in handy.<br />
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After that it was off to cutting the boards to the correct widths. I would set the fence up and then cut both a piece of maple and a piece of walnut without moving the fence. This way you ensure that both pieces are as close in dimension as possible.<br />
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It's easier to rotate all the pieces 90 degrees to the right (or left, as long as it's all in the same direction). Then just spread a generous amount of wood glue. I used Titebond II here since it's safe for indirect food contact which is what a cutting board will be. Some people use Titebond III but from my research Titebond II works just as well unless you're planning on keeping it submerged. Please don't actually do that to a wood cutting board.<br />
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Rotate all the boards and then clamp it together. Leave it for a few hours although overnight is preferred. About 30 minutes in check on the glue squeeze out. If it's not still runny then you can scrape it off to make it easier to clean up the surface later. I didn't actually use any cauls here although I probably should have but I figured I had enough clamps that it was going to be pretty straight.<br />
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After everything was dried I used a bench plane to smooth the surface. I don't have a picture of me planing this surface but rest assured it was a time consuming process. If you're going to buy a hand plane from the store, make sure to spend some time tuning it up. They're usually not ready to go straight out of the box.<br />
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The glue up was then cut vertically in equal widths of 1 1/2". The reason it's cut to 1 1/2" widths is that when you rotate it the end grain will be facing up and the thickness will be that 1 1/2". I believe the blade kerf of the table saw was around 0.11" when I measured it. It was at this step that I realized that I had glued up the boards in the wrong order from what I had initially planned but the new design has actually grown on me.<br />
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The fashionable thing to do is to flip every other strip, like so:<br />
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So initially it was supposed to be the really common checker pattern that you see a lot but I like the offset pattern quite a bit.<br />
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At this point I could either just make 2 cutting boards that would be 1 1/2" thick or I could make one that's 1 1/2" thick and two that would be half the thickness. I know that you're not "supposed" to go less than 1 1/2" for end grain cutting boards but two of them were going to be presents for relatives. I asked my mom and she said she didn't care if it was only 3/4" thick so that's what ended up happening to the rest of the wood.<br />
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Here is the second board being planed. This would then get cut into 3/4" wide strips to make the final board.<br />
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And here is the first board glued together. There were cabinet clamps at my parent's house which definitely were necessary for this project. This looks messy with the glue squeeze out but it'll get cleaned up later.<br />
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Now at this stage I tried to be really careful and attempt to use the bench plane to smooth out the surface. I don't have the proper hand/bench planes for doing end grain and so it didn't really go very well. I ended up just using a sander to sand the surfaces.<br />
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I'm finishing mine with mineral oil and boy was it satisfying watching the oil seep into the wood and really bring out the color and grain. Here's a comparison of with and without mineral oil:<br />
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So in the above picture you can see the surface isn't very pretty. That's because of the mishap earlier from trying to plane the surface using the bench plane. After several hours of sanding I was finally happy with how the surface looked.<br />
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Here's the finished cutting board! Certainly not perfect but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.<br />
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<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3779/11468470305_a27b8ee135_z.jpg" style="-webkit-user-select: none;" />pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-41689303979053110882013-12-14T02:48:00.000-05:002013-12-14T02:48:09.372-05:00Sorry for the extended absenceApologies for the really long absence away from this blog. I've been working on stuff slowly but just haven't really had time to post anything. In the last year I purchased a wood lathe for a project so that's been exciting. I've also been working on molding and casting a prop that I started about a year and a half ago and finished about half a year ago. I also recently did some woodworking to make something practical so there will be a write-up of that as well.<div>
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Stay tuned and hopefully I can crank out some posts by the end of this month.</div>
pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-41392881658975170062012-09-11T23:28:00.003-04:002012-09-15T16:15:10.276-04:00Requiem for a Nissan AltimaThis post isn't exactly in line with the rest of my posts but as this blog was intended for all my hobbies this does fit that bill. I'll update this with pictures when I get a chance.<br /><br /> The red 1999 Nissan Altima SE was my first car, bought back in the summer of 2008 for around $5000 with 131,000 miles on it. Being a SE it was the highest trim meaning it included a moon roof and even a small spoiler in the back. There's been no shortage of things that have needed to be fixed leading to a lot of frustration but it was definitely a good learning experience in terms of working with cars. I've learned a lot about how cars work and the hands on component was certainly right down my alley.<br /><br /><div>
The car seemed to be in good condition when I bought it and for a '99 it even looked decent cosmetically. For a car that's spent all it's time in northern Ohio that's quite a feat given how much salt gets thrown down in the winters. In the past few years I've definitely seen more signs of rust eating through, particularly right under the driver side door behind the front wheel.<br /><br />I've taken quite a few road trips in the Altima, most notable was Spring Break of 2009 with Steven, Andrew, and Lily riding in my car and Justine riding in Kenneth's truck. I drove from Cleveland to Chicago to pick up Steven and Andrew who were both home and then we all drove to Toronto. That was a really long drive (9 hours) and I couldn't imagine how tired Kenneth was since he was doing that drive in a truck that doesn't have cruise control. Also it probably wasn't the best idea to leave Chicago in the afternoon as we didn't get to Toronto until really late at night.<br /><br />Here's a list of some of the things I've done over the years:<br /><br /><b>July 2009</b><br /><ul>
<li>Knock Sensor</li>
<li>Passenger Side window replacement (my car got broken into, it was Cleveland after all)</li>
<li>Driver Side mirror (some kids went down the entire street and smashed most driver side mirrors, lots of unhappy people)</li>
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<b>July 2010</b><br /><ul>
<li>Both front Tie Rods (inner and outer), both are Moog brand</li>
<li>NGK Spark Plug Wires</li>
<li>Bosch Distributor Cap</li>
<li>(4) NGK V-Power Spark Plugs</li>
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<b>July 2011</b><br /><ul>
<li>Worldwide Alternator from Advance Auto Parts</li>
<li>Autocraft Gold Battery, Group Size 24F, 700 CCA</li>
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<b>Aug 2012</b><br /><ul>
<li>Both front Axles (EMPI brand)</li>
<li>replacement of the A/C Liquid Tank, bracket, and the pipe that goes from the firewall to the liquid tank</li>
<li>Sensor for the Liquid Tank</li>
<li>I was informed that the pipe going from the condenser to the liquid tank is no longer available. The old one has visible cracking.</li>
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<br />The hardest part of most of those repairs has almost always been removal of the part. Parts that are rusted together tend to not want to come apart. For instance I had to saw the tie rods for that removal since it absolutely refused to come apart.<br /><br />I had wanted to eventually swap out parts as they wore out but after fixing the axles a few weeks ago I found out that the problem was actually with the transmission which meant it would have cost over $1000 to fix. Considering that the car is worth about $3000 in "good" condition I think it could have sold for more but it was sold by my parents so I guess it's their decision. It was sold at around 163,000 miles on the odometer.</div>
pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-779231625723075152012-09-05T14:56:00.000-04:002012-09-05T14:56:32.816-04:00Finishing Cyborg Ninja HelmetI recently got commissioned to fully finish a Cyborg Ninja helmet so I was determined to make it the best possible. The final result was better than even my own.<br />
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I started off by casting another helmet using SmoothCast 65D.<br />
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Then there's the familiar process of body filler, sanding, and more filling and sanding. The green stuff is Evercoat Z-Grip body filler and the red stuff is Dynatron spot putty. </div>
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I picked up some stuff along the way including more grits of wet/dry sandpaper, Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, and Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax.<br />
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After this there's some more priming and sanding involved. </div>
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And then the first coat of RustOleum Gloss White. <br />
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Before the final coat of gloss white I wet sanded it to 800 grit. <br />
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After a coat of RustOleum Crystal Clear I then sanded it down to 1000 grit to make it really smooth for the waterslide decals. The waterslide decals were drawn up in Illustrator and printed on waterslide decal paper using a laser printer. Make sure the printer matches the paper as there is both laser and inkjet waterslide paper. <br />
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I have Micro Sol and Micro Set from building scale models so I went ahead and used some of that here. It helps to soften the decal and make it conform to curved surfaces better.</div>
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While you can still see the edges of the decal here once you put a few more clear coats and then sand it down it really becomes nearly invisible. </div>
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Here you don't see the glossiness of the paint because it's been sanded down some. This is in the middle of working up to 2000 grit. </div>
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This is after polish and wax. I was really surprised by the results as it's my first experience with polishing and waxing. It takes some elbow grease but it really does turn out very smooth. </div>
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This is a closeup of the decal on the forehead piece to show that the edges become pretty much invisible. </div>
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I had some odd reactions with the clear on the back piece so I had to sand it down and restart from the white. It got really frustrating.<br />
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Another picture showing the final finish. You can read the words of the sandpaper in the reflection. Deep reflections don't show up nearly as well on white paint as with darker colors such as black.<br />
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Pictures of the final finished helmet. I added some upholstery foam on the inside of the cheek pieces where it attaches to the outside of the helmet in order to protect the finish. <br />
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pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-45884840476615722432012-06-18T14:22:00.001-04:002013-10-03T23:59:50.023-04:00Steiner Sword (Final Fantasy IX)EDIT: Link to the <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6383490/FF%20IX%20Steiner%20Sword.pdf">PDF file</a><br />
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My friends and I are doing a Final Fantasy IX group and I was asked to make Steiner's sword. The sword is huge and has odd proportions because Steiner has massive hands. I scaled the sword using in game references to my friend's height.<br />
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The first task was to create the blueprint for the sword so I used Illustrator and did front and side views of the sword. I then got this printed out at FedEx/Kinko's since they have large scale printers. While it was really simple and straightforward and it's nice having one large sheet for the blueprint I may just cheap out and print it out on regular printer paper (tiling the sheets) in the future.</div>
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The core of the sword was constructed using 1/8" MDF with a threaded steel rod through the middle. The steel rod was then fiberglassed onto the MDF.</div>
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<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8022/7390727070_61686ff0c0_z.jpg" /></div>
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<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8026/7390729152_8fdd5d2db9_z.jpg" /></div>
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7224/7390730806_296a53050c_z.jpg" /></div>
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I used pink insulation foam to build up the thickness of the sword to try and cut down on the final weight. The handle is made using PVC with circles of pink insulation foam. The inside hole of the insulation foam was cut out using a hole saw bit for the power drill.</div>
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<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5232/7390732292_8fd50e9d15_z.jpg" /></div>
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This was then double checked against the blueprint I made. The paper sketch below was to help calculate the sizing of the foam circles for the handle.</div>
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7224/7390734538_9cd4a51dc1_z.jpg" /></div>
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The pink insulation foam was covered in a layer of sintra to make the top surface smoother and harder. I cut out 4 sintra panels, one for each surface.</div>
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7105/7390735710_d807e6db97_z.jpg" /></div>
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The handle pieces were coated in acrylic paint after some initial shaping and then I put some Bondo on it to smooth out a few surfaces.</div>
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<img id="yui_3_5_0_3_1340039157727_279" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8016/7390737424_545b27c364_z.jpg" /></div>
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I wanted the handle to be sturdier so I fiberglassed it but I learned that acrylic paint isn't enough of a barrier. It's enough for body filler but fiberglass resin is too liquid so it will still get into small gaps. So at this point the handle is just a mess.</div>
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7225/7390739278_4ae2ef1c0c_z.jpg" /></div>
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While I was on a fiberglassing streak I went ahead and fiberglassed the entire blade as well. I had some issues with the edges when I tried to fold the fiberglass cloth over the edge. It would bubble out. I talked to Aaron from Fiberglassblades (the guy who makes all the Zelda swords and shields) and he said for edges it's better to lay the fiberglass so it hangs over the edge, sand it down and repeat for the other side.</div>
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<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5112/7390740990_7076fec36c_z.jpg" /></div>
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The knuckle bow guard was made by heat forming strips of 1/8" sintra (it's the only thickness I have access to) and then super gluing it all together.</div>
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<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5348/7390743486_5cc718e0d6_z.jpg" /><br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7212/7390745106_b61dbf3cfa_z.jpg" /><br />
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I used some Bondo brand body filler earlier but for areas where a lot of sanding is needed I use Evercoat Z-Grip. I've only managed to find it at automotive stores but it sands miles better than regular Bondo. I highly recommend it.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7211/7390746432_da1819e5fa_z.jpg" /><br />
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Halfway through sanding the last handle piece pictured above I realized that it was not actually round but octagonal so I had to go back and cut it down. Below is all the handle pieces mostly smoothed out.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7223/7390748694_1ac5d970d9_z.jpg" /><br />
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The handle pieces were Gorilla glued onto the PVC pipe. Upon double checking to the blueprint I found that it was too long so I had to cut about an inch from one side. You can see I had to sacrifice some of the detail from the original blueprint. This was mostly due to no having a lathe and not spending enough time during the shaping of the pink insulation foam.<br />
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<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8005/7390750132_af4d239f50_z.jpg" /><br />
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The guard of the sword is a large dome and it would be impossible to make out of one sheet of sintra without cutting it apart so I made a 3D model and used Pepakura to make the template. The initial one came out too boxy since my 3D model was too simple.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7096/7390751682_7f05140f27_z.jpg" /><br />
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After remaking the 3D model using a higher poly model I put it back into Pepakura.<br />
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<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5071/7390752780_9dc74168b6_z.jpg" style="background-color: white;" /><br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7222/7390753952_eedafdce5d_z.jpg" style="background-color: white;" /><br />
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The sintra was then heat formed to get the correct shape. The other two sintra pieces are to cap off the hole at the top. The guard sits just under the blade so the cap pieces are made to fit onto just the thickness of the MDF + steel rod core.<br />
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<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5031/7390755066_509ac1dbb9_z.jpg" /><br />
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And here's a shot of the blade and handle put together. The MDF + steel rod core extends into the PVC pipe and it was all Gorilla glued together.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7100/7390756148_cd6ab7c952_z.jpg" /><br />
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The end was capped off using a circle of sintra.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7076/7390757408_343878206d_z.jpg" /><br />
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I dremeled out a hole for the knuckle guard at the bottom of the handle. The other attachment point is on the large dome guard.<br />
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<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/7390758934_78115726b8_z.jpg" /><br />
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The dome was glued on and then blended in with more body filler.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7213/7390760824_0f1f438c52_z.jpg" /><br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7234/7390762140_77b776e4b0_z.jpg" /><br />
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The underside of the guard is ugly because of the Gorilla glue but since it doesn't really get seen I didn't really bother cleaning it up too much.<br />
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<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5450/7390763104_3380775bfa_z.jpg" /><br />
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A closer view of the slot for the knuckle guard.<br />
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<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8020/7390764126_4ca752479e_z.jpg" /><br />
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The knuckle guard glued in place.<br />
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<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5453/7390765688_430b198263_z.jpg" /><br />
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Everything assembled together.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7099/7390766862_5536d1a9d6_z.jpg" /><br />
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After some priming some spot putty was needed before it would be ready for actual paint.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7215/7390768720_3d2fc51768_z.jpg" /><br />
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The entire sword got a few coats of RustOleum silver spray paint.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7230/7390770370_a6126cbca2_z.jpg" /><br />
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The handle was masked off and I airbrushed a custom mix of acrylic paints for the brown. I just use the cheap acrylic paints that are less than $1 at craft stores.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7390771516_f8e575b883_z.jpg" /><br />
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<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8007/7390772866_8a2468fc03_z.jpg" /><br />
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This was my first time weathering a prop but I think it turned out alright. The weathering was sealed in using Future Floor Acrylic. I've had a large bottle for years since I used to make Gundam models and resin kits and I used it as a clear coat for those things. Weathering really adds some depth to the overall piece.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7244/7390775932_edffacf03d_z.jpg" /><br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7234/7390774408_181965401b_z.jpg" /></div>
pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-71188955677235020562012-05-13T08:56:00.000-04:002012-05-13T08:57:58.748-04:00Dropquest 2012This post isn't exactly related to my other hobbies but I thought it'd be fun to document my progress as I went along. <br />
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I remember reading about Dropquest last year but unfortunately I didn't know about it at the time to participate. For those who do not know, it's a <a href="http://blog.dropbox.com/?p=1194" target="_blank">scavenger hunt</a> that Dropbox does similar to MIT's Mystery Hunt (I've had friend who went to MIT who told me about how fun and challenging it was). I looked through it afterwards and it seemed like a really fun thing to do. I didn't exactly put it on my calendar or anything but I saw an article online announcing it on Saturday evening (May 12, 2012) and decided to give it a shot. I figured out quite a lot of it myself but there were a few where I checked with a Google Doc that contained a walkthrough. Namely, I'm still puzzled about Chapter 20 and the Endgame solutions.<br />
<h4 class="tr_bq">
Chapter 1</h4>
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This one was a set of 5 equations to solve for 5 numbers</div>
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<pre style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;"><ol>
<li>The product of the first two digits is 24.</li>
<li>The fourth digit is half of the second digit.</li>
<li>The sum of the last two digits is the same as the sum of the first and third digits.</li>
<li>The sum of all the digits is 26.</li>
<li>The second digit is greater than the last digit.</li>
</ol>
The solution is 38645
</pre>
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<blockquote>
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The future's an obnoxious place! Had to start some diagnostics on the computer to figure out what parts we were missing.</blockquote>
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<i>- Captain's Log, Chapter 1</i></blockquote>
<h4>
Chapter 2</h4>
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The file 38645.txt placed in my Dropbox read:<br />
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Damage report: <br />
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3 parts critically damaged:<br />
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- spectroscopic dielectric amplifier<br />
- plasmonic hypercapacitor<br />
- super-special, quantum, sapphire Dropbox core (55% intact)<br />
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Vehicle is still flight-ready.<br />
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To replace the core, please consult the engineering team staff directory (http://www.dropbox.com/about) for further instructions.<br />
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1. Someone with six letters in their first name (including 2 capital letters).<br />
2. Someone with an initial instead of their last name.<br />
3. Someone who's a recruiter.<br />
4. Someone who wears glasses.<br />
5. Someone who's next-door neighbors with an animal. </blockquote>
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1) ChenLi Wang - The clue was about a knight (in chess) so each following person can be found by moving like a knight<br />
2) Ramsey H.<br />
3) Allison Louie<br />
4) Naveen Agraval<br />
5) Emily Zhao<br />
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The first letter of each one spells out CRANE, which is used in the <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/dropquest2012/crane" target="_blank">url for the next step</a>.<br />
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It's time to scavenge for parts... we hailed our engineering team to figure out where to head next. Dominated a game of chess to get there. </blockquote>
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<i>- Captain's Log, Chapter 2</i></blockquote>
<h4>
Chapter 3</h4>
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Icons correspond to<br />
1. Sharing<br />
2. Move<br />
3. Upload<br />
4. Download<br />
5. Get Started<br />
6. Events<br />
7. Show deleted files<br />
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The first letter of each one spells out SMUDGES<br />
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
The next gate to our success lay in a bunch of cryptic icons Emily left for us to decipher. Luckily I recognized them from somewhere I visit every once in a while... </blockquote>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>- Captain's Log, Chapter 3</i></blockquote>
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<h4>
Chapter 4</h4>
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This one had a bunch of locations separated into days and a hint which was Google Maps. When you input each location in order and get the directions it spells out a letter. <br />
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Monday - <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Lafayette+Park+Tennis+Courts,+Gough+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA&daddr=California+Pacific+Medical+Center:+California+Campus,+California+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:1833+Page+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA+94117+%28Park+Branch+Library%29+to:The+Mint+Karaoke+Lounge,+Market+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:Happy+Donuts,+24th+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:Midtown+Terrace,+San+Francisco,+CA&hl=en&sll=37.76834,-122.439451&sspn=0.053397,0.067034&geocode=FWmmQAIdjemz-CEIfBuI4hx1dQ%3BFeWRQAIdq3iz-CH4MYeO3tDQDg%3BFbdUQAIdXYuz-CGDl-kb8J8Zgw%3BFXpTQAIdfumz-CF3pfyTzt5Ytg%3BFSULQAIdTOez-CGgUpksQvA0-SnBgzTdFH6PgDHoOkyQRH5Alg%3BFREIQAId14Cz-CnvMXhi432PgDF_SHTBvBrCPw&mra=ls&t=m&z=14" target="_blank">S</a><br />
Tuesday - <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=24th+St.+Mission+BART+Station,+Mission+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA&daddr=Twin+Peaks,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:Best+Buy+near+Geary+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:999+Van+Ness+Avenue,+San+Francisco,+CA+94109+%28Bentley+San+Francisco%29+to:El+Farolito+Taqueria,+Mission+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA&hl=en&sll=37.76596,-122.433595&sspn=0.053399,0.067034&geocode=FV8OQAId0gu0-CFWhWysRWfjAA%3BFUcSQAIdBKKz-CmnvV9CCH6PgDFXtgS1ZSaeLQ%3BFT2CQAIdqZ2z-CH4EQGjdDSblA%3BFT-MQAIdcv-z-CE_4_FEmAW7MSntzDxgloCFgDF6o-jqQPPJPQ%3BFXwPQAIdWgu0-CEhyXrxN55HwynlZEhNR36PgDEDaiYO9LC8vQ&oq=El+Farolito+Taqueria+&mra=ls&t=m&z=14" target="_blank">O</a><br />
Thursday - <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=San+Francisco+Zoo,+Zoo+Road,+San+Francisco,+CA&daddr=Great+Highway+Inn,+Great+Highway,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:37th+and+bike+route+40+to:California+Shakespeare+Theater+Summer+Conservatory,+37th+Avenue,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:Sunset+Reservoir,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:Sunset+Supermarket,+Irving+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:Sigmund+Stern+Grove,+San+Francisco,+CA&hl=en&ll=37.7452,-122.483139&spn=0.106827,0.134068&sll=37.745064,-122.497215&sspn=0.053414,0.067034&geocode=FdvGPwIdWLSy-CHXPcHbbkj9dSlRoOCIbn2PgDHT5p-isCfgPQ%3BFbo5QAIdiaay-CFTBug3RmC0Iind6dwcvoeFgDEA3palJppAhg%3BFQUoQAIdaNuy-CmLo-vAnIeFgDHxmIXaTvxXJA%3BFVn9PwIdXd2y-CEZwGx7Rl5IeCkRwjYlfn2PgDHT2qbVABbZPw%3BFQIJQAIdFQez-CkNbANCh32PgDFBELkIhnNLHA%3BFUg4QAIdfQqz-CFiNWPLxX4asSmP6zrycIeFgDHb9dZNC_kfdg%3BFbDOPwIdWiGz-CFBGpt51M5x6w&oq=sigmund&mra=ls&t=m&z=13" target="_blank">M</a><br />
Saturday - <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Thai+Thai+Noodle,+California+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA&daddr=Fiddler%27s+Green,+Columbus+Avenue,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:Glamour+Closet,+Columbus+Avenue,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:Piazza+Pellegrini+Restaurant,+Columbus+Avenue,+San+Francisco,+CA+to:Searchlight+Market,+Hyde+Street,+San+Francisco,+CA&hl=en&sll=37.798895,-122.4126&sspn=0.026687,0.033517&geocode=FSWlQAId8g60-CERrPyAOUOcPw%3BFfThQAId6ga0-CFG13OcPeJqBimHWw5C4YCFgDFMrI6ZYq2xFw%3BFbK6QAIdPUG0-CEHnjta8RI30SmHy9Xb9ICFgDEDGsCY6EATKA%3BFUHLQAIdxCa0-CFWfk_xrt-Zdin9a8ZK8ICFgDHe94d8uVTvOA%3BFZXEQAIdFAm0-CH1XTd1EEq26inFgt7P6ICFgDFkOQa0PxqiKg&oq=searchlight&mra=ls&t=m&z=15" target="_blank">A</a><br />
<br />
Spells out SOMA<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
This strange journey is quite complicated!
Today I retraced a lot of routes I normally take every day-- it's hard
to believe that these places existed just 'yesterday'.
</blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>- Captain's Log, Chapter 4</i></blockquote>
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<h4>
Chapter 5</h4>
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
After tracing through my steps, we've ended up in SOMA (South of Market), which I believe is where Dropbox's headquarters were at back in our time. Many hologram displays (just like the one we saw earlier) speckled the streets, but many of them were out of energy. Maybe we can power them with some of the juice from the time machine and get some more clues, like we did from the last display. Now we just need to assign the right cables with the right outlets. UGH. What is with all these symbols on everything this trip?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKyIH9fN3DnDpu607xs9fJH_1ShTeKpIywTTzHcMG2jwQDXW5YDn694BAsSYVVN4FFNQI7vL2sHp_suUMsc4bFj_uV7Tbs7Y4ZFYN5fpr70Qmifk4dzIHxHhXfV6E3sDnKd5jc5Ypbwdk/s1600/Chapter5+symbols.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKyIH9fN3DnDpu607xs9fJH_1ShTeKpIywTTzHcMG2jwQDXW5YDn694BAsSYVVN4FFNQI7vL2sHp_suUMsc4bFj_uV7Tbs7Y4ZFYN5fpr70Qmifk4dzIHxHhXfV6E3sDnKd5jc5Ypbwdk/s320/Chapter5+symbols.png" width="320" /> </a></div>
</blockquote>
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Based on <a href="http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/world+electricity+guide.html" target="_blank">REI </a>article, the plug types spell out MADLIB</div>
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</h4>
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Chapter 6</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsGJcF73rmTAKzp6B5N7gLXxKwgZDHSD8oXcdWBGkiX37kgagdp-cyr5QI_JDpqBiNSmZpYbCKEn8Z3DgfVIVqKZmNIEtl5_nRYtsmO3vwzj3TdoiGPo70OTs5cX5ImW7Ck5bwDyd12uE/s1600/Chapter+6+f84h732.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsGJcF73rmTAKzp6B5N7gLXxKwgZDHSD8oXcdWBGkiX37kgagdp-cyr5QI_JDpqBiNSmZpYbCKEn8Z3DgfVIVqKZmNIEtl5_nRYtsmO3vwzj3TdoiGPo70OTs5cX5ImW7Ck5bwDyd12uE/s320/Chapter+6+f84h732.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhuS4De7SqVMjuE5N-RrEWs_Y-yzjKvkxclcL-Urk0442C3WnbGMs3yQaTgIHCt6xb_mZF3u78rJcwmzVWGalpRN1WS-rhdAel5Duadq1RJTQLMNhOR0lNvmyeBNf-ChHxJu6Ms7C37Lg/s1600/Chapter+6+f84h732_inverted.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhuS4De7SqVMjuE5N-RrEWs_Y-yzjKvkxclcL-Urk0442C3WnbGMs3yQaTgIHCt6xb_mZF3u78rJcwmzVWGalpRN1WS-rhdAel5Duadq1RJTQLMNhOR0lNvmyeBNf-ChHxJu6Ms7C37Lg/s320/Chapter+6+f84h732_inverted.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Inverting the image, there are three squares whose colors don't match with the text. The M D Y gives a <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/events?ns=false&n=0&d=11-28-2001" target="_blank">date for the event</a>. Go to that date and you find the next clue.</div>
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Chapter 7 </h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here is your <a href="http://soundcloud.com/reasonable/for-sure" target="_blank">next clue</a>, but you may also need <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uh5hyydcp05qzbg/VOTguVRtJr/legend.png" target="_blank">this</a>. </div>
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<br /></div>
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The legend gives the time points for the comments which contain letters. It spelled out <a href="http://www.dropbox.com/dropquest2012/DEALING" target="_blank">DEALING</a></div>
<h4 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</h4>
<h4 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Chapter 8</h4>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #232323; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b></div>
<blockquote>
<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/dGPExQiXLu9k9KPstruBTSBkf10ZkSY2cS4biVd8ZDBF16q8fB0LzjkZ6YMDCz4T-8nHTtInWWFUarxY8YwB-GeGTb6r8Vcrh5Q_KO__8M6J6B0P7u4" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>So after tinkering around with the hologram computer, we listened to some audio that was sent from... someone. After following a few clues, we received a message from this someone.</blockquote>
<br />
<blockquote>
Hey there,<br />
I can imagine this whole future thing is throwing you for a loop, but everything will start making sense soon. There are people watching, so we have to speak in code. I know what parts you need, and can point you to the first piece. Trust me on this one.<br />
This is a clue that only someone from your time would understand.<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #232323; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b></blockquote>
<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/dGPExQiXLu9k9KPstruBTSBkf10ZkSY2cS4biVd8ZDBF16q8fB0LzjkZ6YMDCz4T-8nHTtInWWFUarxY8YwB-GeGTb6r8Vcrh5Q_KO__8M6J6B0P7u4" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a> <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1t6ekPz1tTHiQN4Seba4rjIv8pXOxSjunF55dPGrX1Z73XOvpgOKoJk-RI4PPKPwALJofz6LplAQ_Hz6VXTshmtliEbOxsREYo0bCk84iK1wzUOg0n_9LhCA-MqqrzNihjGRifxqJHY/s1600/mashup.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1t6ekPz1tTHiQN4Seba4rjIv8pXOxSjunF55dPGrX1Z73XOvpgOKoJk-RI4PPKPwALJofz6LplAQ_Hz6VXTshmtliEbOxsREYo0bCk84iK1wzUOg0n_9LhCA-MqqrzNihjGRifxqJHY/s1600/mashup.png" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #232323; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mascots:</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">MIT - Tim the Beaver</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">URI - Rhody the Ram</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">LMU -</span></b> Iggy the Lion <b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">UGA - Uga the Bulldog</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">LSU - Mike the Tiger</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">GSU - Pounce the blue panther</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">UNLV University of Nevada - Hey Reb</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">UF - University Florida - Albert the Gator</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">UNCC - UNC Charlotte - Norm</span><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">MIT - Tim the Beaver</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first letter of each one spells out TRIUMPHANT</span></b></div>
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</div>
<h4>
Chapter 9</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<blockquote>
Well, it seems like we can trust our mysterious benefactor for now... we've got one plasmonic hypercapacitor down, and a handful more parts to go. But there's no word from our helper on where to head next. Luckily for us; it looks like we got an update back from our onboard computer after putting the part in, so we've got ourselves a bit of a time extension. Let's check out what's landed in our <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Dropquest%202012/Onboard%20Computer%20Update">Dropquest folder</a>. We may have to do a little bit of reordering of the data to figure out what to do next though.</blockquote>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ordering by file extension, and the message "Your next destination is the last page of the tour"</span></b></div>
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<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Going to https://www.dropbox.com/tour you'll find the e-mail on the last page. The one I was given was boxer@dropbox.com.</span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b></div>
<h4>
Chapter 10</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
Even after inviting our benefactor to Dropbox, we've still got no word from him.
So after you suggested we do some more exploring, we headed back into the city.
It's kind of strange seeing how some everyday places have evolved over time-- homes,
businesses, and supermarkets all look the same, just filled with things that neither
of us recognized. But one thing that I've noticed now that we're out here is that all
the cars are gone. I don't see a single vehicle at all. Does this mean that everyone
drove away? Or maybe there's a smarter way to travel (a mega carpool lane?).
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
While doing some more scouting, we came upon a museum that I used to go to all the
time as a kid. 40 years later, they have a featured exhibit on the 2010s.
How convenient! While I don't see any of the parts we need, the center of the exhibit
has a strangely familiar locked box with the following etched onto it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh54ZzqYZHpdTy90gCvLHo1xy1v-UQYmqsa-8ZLUNDQ60pJtKfEbyhPCflEHvxYAEMbNCWCedRuzx2uQyfC140MXoZ8VnNFQR98mvKTpBenuQfpxT-s5Vw53xm_IK-xGPXO8u4gGvcnmjc/s1600/9gf82ns.png" /></div>
<br /></div>
</blockquote>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<blockquote>
Something doesn't seem to belong though... </blockquote>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">TEO is the stock ticker symbol of a company in Argentina.</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b></div>
<h4>
Chapter 11</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.20547685283236206" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
As luck would have it, the box contained a spectroscopic dielectric amplifier
(who keeps these things laying around anyway?). Also, our benefactor (let's call
him Benny) got back to us!
</div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
<i>Hey, I've got directions to your next stop (and the last part you need), but you'll
need to do a little deciphering.
</i></div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
<i>
I've encoded this message using one of the early file encryption schemes that Drew Houston and
Arash Ferdowsi tried out before Dropbox was released. In this scheme, files are split
into equal-sized "blocks", and each block is encrypted with a different Caesar shift.
The encryption turned out to not be very secure, so you should be able to crack it! </i></div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<pre>UEHVDQADRZWGJXFVFIWEJTWKSRBESAQADRZNXAOWGQTHP</pre>
</div>
<pre> </pre>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Woah! I think that Benny means to say that our super-special, quantum, sapphire Dropbox
core is at our next stop.
</div>
</blockquote>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
We need to split the code into blocks, and then use a different reverse ceasar shift on each block. <b id="internal-source-marker_0.80460045626387" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"></b><br />
<b id="internal-source-marker_0.80460045626387" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b><br />
<pre>UEHVD QADRZ WGJXF VFIWE JTWKS RBESA QADRZ NXAOW GQTHP</pre>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Splitting the text into 9 five letter blocks that each spell block, the numbers of the cipher shift is 19, 15, 21, 20, 8, 16, 15, 12, 5. Finding these letters in the alphabet gives the answer. <br />
<br />
The answer is SOUTHPOLE<br />
<br />
<h4>
Chapter 12 </h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
We descended from the clouds into the harsh environment of the Antarctic. There was ice as far
as the eye could see, and we managed to fly by a few penguins on our way in. Benny's directions
led us straight to an empty patch of ice that was eerily silent. In the middle of the clearing
atop a stone pedestal was the super-special quantum, sapphire Dropbox core! What was odd was
that it seemed like it was tampered with a bit, and there were fresh footprints in the snow. I
didn't give it much thought because the core was there, so I inserted it into the time machine
and it seemed to fire up just fine. Time to head home! Our journey is at long last at its end.
Peace out, future!
</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
P.S. I've been keeping a <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Dropquest%202012/Captain%27s%20Logs" target="_blank">captain's log</a> of our trip in case you ever want to revisit each step we've taken! </div>
</blockquote>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Checking the log,</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
Something has gone wrong... but luckily I was so excited that I forgot to bring you along as my passenger! Can you set the tracer log (this file) back to the last time we met? I'm counting on you... you're my only hope!</div>
</blockquote>
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i>- Captain's Log, Chapter 12</i></div>
</blockquote>
Restore to the previous version of the file:<br />
<br />
<h4>
Chapter 13 </h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Turns out the core was tainted. Luckily, having a buddy does wonders. I was plunged into a place between the fabric of time and space. The time machine's communication gadget knows no bounds, and without it, I'd be trapped in limbo and we'd never get down to the heart of this mystery. So I sense some foul play. I have a feeling that Benny is trying to foil our plans to return home, but why would he? Why would someone plant a counterfeit super-special, quantum, sapphire Dropbox core in a place we'd find so easily? I think something's definitely fishy here, and I think it's on us to get to the bottom of it all. <br />
<br />
I checked back in with the engineering team by examining our core's reference guide for a shield from an old video game. It's our only link to the past.</blockquote>
When you visit <a href="http://www.dropbox.com/help">http://www.dropbox.com/help</a> the icon for "Security and Privacy" is the shield from Zelda. Clicking leads to the next chapter.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Chapter 14</h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
At Emily's recommendation, we've flown to Ayers Rock where we should be able to
find our next clue. She's told us that a heat signature really similar to the genuine
super-special, quantum, sapphire Dropbox core was last seen there, so maybe we'll
find something of value there. We've come upon some ruins, with some fresh etchings
in the wall, and what seem to be some movable blocks. Hmm... I wonder what'll happen if
I move the blocks to match the etchings... </blockquote>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNXDomKlQCdufw8MBqT8nTYz1G4yoDC6p1nsLNpP-MfRndvr06u-bsASSWbDKRWKiHhsrd5LlU_S5yBR6Bp3gjUPJHhClRgpNP0mXRVkFDwX7lRXREYVHSRr0CBf4tiF7fJXjm7DIPRnM/s1600/sudoku0.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNXDomKlQCdufw8MBqT8nTYz1G4yoDC6p1nsLNpP-MfRndvr06u-bsASSWbDKRWKiHhsrd5LlU_S5yBR6Bp3gjUPJHhClRgpNP0mXRVkFDwX7lRXREYVHSRr0CBf4tiF7fJXjm7DIPRnM/s320/sudoku0.png" width="318" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoQ00lpCzKnzTK0qp6ij5KEBGGDYoTXmKxkjag3-9NinHMygoiHKPFmkvUvHvSWJLitieoE84U6earitidhko8t__iQUMHfuemY5fN9s-gGK1GtRQeujiolnCbBWa69I4nvllErqdYOGI/s1600/solved.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoQ00lpCzKnzTK0qp6ij5KEBGGDYoTXmKxkjag3-9NinHMygoiHKPFmkvUvHvSWJLitieoE84U6earitidhko8t__iQUMHfuemY5fN9s-gGK1GtRQeujiolnCbBWa69I4nvllErqdYOGI/s320/solved.png" width="312" /></a></div>
Then you have to do a sliding block puzzle to get the highlighted 3x3 section of the Sudoku puzzle (for me it was the bottom left).<br />
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Chapter 15</h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
Upon solving the mystery of the ruins, giant stone walls moved aside to reveal...
my time machine?? No, wait. It's slightly different... more refined. The parts
seem a bit more sophisticated. Just then, a message pops up on our computer. It's
from Benny. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<i>If you're receiving this message, then something has gone wrong. Let me be upfront with you, because this means we are probably running out of time. </i><br />
<br />
<i>I am you. </i><br />
<br />
<i>Well, a future version of the past you, to be exact. The only reason your timeline is a bit different (and the reason why you're in this predicament) is because the super-special, quantum sapphire Dropbox core is actually brought back to your time from the future, my time. The truth is, I made the time machine several years back (2038), but evil men who hoped to use the power of the Dropbox core to alter the events of history were after my research. Rather than forfeit the core to them, I used my own time machine to land in 2006 to leave the core in your care. Without the core, I lived only as an observer and watched as you built your very own time machine. I didn't think you'd be dumb enough to hop into the future though ;). </i><br />
<br />
<i>Without the Dropbox core, the world went all sorts of crazy. There was a huge cataclysmic event in the 2050s which I luckily survived. Meanwhile, I figured that you would probably hop to the future totally unprepared (the altered ionosphere is actually what caused your crash landing). But you'll be able to return home. Using parts from my own time machine, I planted the critical parts you need across the world, and set in motion a program to make sure you were guided there every step of the way. I don't have enough raw materials to complete another Dropbox core; but if you add my pieces to your pieces, you should have enough to get going. </i></blockquote>
<blockquote>
<i>But the reason you were led here is because the core I planted was moved. Evil men exist in all timelines, and they're probably going to use the core again for nefarious means. I have a script that can help us track down the core though, but we need to move quickly. Share a new folder (not your Dropquest folder) with me (boxer@dropbox.com) and we'll get moving.
</i></blockquote>
Follow the instructions - create a New Folder, share with boxer@dropbox.com. Files will then be placed in there.<br />
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Chapter 16</h4>
notes.txt<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
You should head to the library. I've got a pile of articles waiting for you, but you'll notice something different about them. Let's just say I played a game of Mad Libs with them. Many of the words in these sentences don't belong. Once you figure out which words these are, you must also know that all of these words are headless. After you've figured it out, your next destination is a place on dropbox.com with two of these. </blockquote>
1.txt<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
The mobile professional has myriad devices on which files live, which makes having a dependable syncing program a must. Dropbox (Free, 4 stars) fills that role nicely with an iPad app that evokes its desktop and mobile phone products. Like those other versions of the free file synchronization application, Dropbox for iPad features a simple interface, easy uploading, and swift syncing across all accounts. Overall, it's an excellent, affordably priced too (you can use it for free if you need 2GB of storage or less) for the business-minded person on the go. You still can't move files between folders, but you can upload multiple files at once and save to sub-divisions - improvements that have been added since we last looked at the app. It's more than worthy of an Editors' Choice award. </blockquote>
2.txt<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
"We're always looking for ways to make lives easier and solve the basic problems people face everyday," said Drew Houston, CEO and co-founder of Dropbox. "Sending files has always been a painful process, but now with Dropbox, sharing with friends, family, and colleagues is effortless." </blockquote>
3.txt<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Just last month, Dropbox was voted "startup of the year" at the annual Crunchies Awards. But it also faces enormous competition in the file sharing space from other startups such as Box.net, CloudMe, SugarSync, Egnyte, and big players such as Apple and Google, which are both actively expanding the ability of ourselves to share files. </blockquote>
4.txt<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Dropbox allows people to access files, like documents, photos and music, on any device wherever they are, without pesky zip files or astronomical e-mail attachments. As people edit files, Dropbox updates them so a single file is available on all devices. Most people use it free and can pay for additional storage. </blockquote>
5.txt<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
I realize that not everybody works on such elaborate file-shuttling projects. But try Dropbox for its ability to keep your important files everywhere at once. Or try it as an automatic, silent, lasting backup of your essentials. Or try it so that you can get at your computer's files from your phone. </blockquote>
6.txt<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Adorable analogies aside, Dropbox 2.0 for Android offers a host of new features. These include Favorites, which allows you to star and access files offline; Bulk Uploads, for adding multiple files simultaneously; File Renaming, don't make me explain that; and the ability to import and export from local storage. It will also support the new Ice Cream Sandwich OS. And for students, or at least people that have held onto their old college email accounts, Dropbox is offering 500MB of bonus storage for every new member they refer to the service - double the standard referral deal. </blockquote>
7.txt<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
At Dropbox's San Francisco headquarters, Houston (pronounced like the Manhattan street, not the city in Texas) sits in a sea of engineers under a iridescent sign that reads "ITJUSTWORKS" with "just work" flashing in blue. His desk is blanketed in a flurry of resumes an inch thick and his attention constantly darts between four 24-inch monitors. </blockquote>
<br />
<br />
Finding each of these quotes from articles, you can find the differences in each<br />
1.txt - evokes/complements<br />
2.txt - lives/life<br />
3.txt - ourselves/users<br />
4.txt - astronomical/hulking<br />
5.txt - lasting/encrypted<br />
6.txt - deal/rate<br />
7.txt - iridescent/neon<br />
<br />
I'm not totally sure how the words really pertain but when you click on the rainbow icon on the Sharing page you'll be taken to the next chapter.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Chapter 17</h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
After discovering the secrets of the double rainbow, we flew to Victoria
Falls to witness it in person. Luckily, natural wonders like the Falls weren't
ravaged by the cataclysm, and it was as gorgeous as I had seen in pictures. As
soon as we got there though, we got a glimpse of the ever elusive time bandits!
They knew we were onto them, and immediately ran off in their vehicle. They were
in such a huge rush to escape that one of them dropped their phone! Upon examining
it, it seemed that there were some encrypted contents on it:
</div>
<br />
<pre style="text-align: left;">DNMOYASUYDEATNSDEEYDAWUHDRYASTRAFYIDTRUSYADA
LUSHBAFDCOODEPYYPGRUMPLEESYNESEZY
STAUURIMEINGANCCREELOGRIVOBRAILSCRPOIOTARGISTUSAIPRICRNOCAARQAUISUSPEICS
CERMRYUEVSUNTHEARMRASPUJTIERTSAURNRUUNAS
NEVYLUGTONYTUSLTPIDERTHOLSARTHW
TRAXOGRIETBRATIBDGRAONKNASETAOGKONMEYOROSTREGDOIPG
LIHEMUENONPYKORTNONXENRDAON
DRERANGEOLOWEYLRGENELBUELIVOTE
</pre>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
Just as we were looking at it, we received a new message from Benny.
</div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
<i>
Woah, seems like the time bandits are also pretty familiar with the history of Dropbox!
These look like they were encrypted with another one of the rejected Dropbox encryption
schemes from back in the early days. In this one, files are split into uneven
blocks and the contents within each block are scrambled. This scheme turned out to
be insecure too, so you should be able to decipher it!
</i></div>
</blockquote>
1st line is days of the week, missing SUNDAY<br />
2nd line is 7 dwarves, missing HAPPY<br />
3rd line is horoscope signs, missing ARIES<br />
4th line is planets, missing NEPTUNE<br />
5th line is deadly sins, missing GREED<br />
6th line is Chinese zodiac, missing HORSE<br />
7th line is noble gases, missing ARGON<br />
8th line is colors of the rainbow, missing INDIGO<br />
<br />
The first letter of each spells out SHANGHAI<br />
<br />
<h4>
Chapter 18</h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
We were able to discover the location of their Shanghai base. It was hidden in the
basement of a shopping center, in a small room. Schematics were strewn all around,
strongly resembling the plans for my own time machine. Random parts also dotted the
walls. Beyond that, there was a huge collection of what seemed like random objects
on a table. Why would they bother keeping this crap? I figure that even though they're
my enemy, I'll still spend a few minutes doing a bit of spring cleaning for them. I'll start
by sorting this <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Dropquest%202012/Spring%20Cleaning" target="_blank">pile of stuff</a>
for them and dragging the right things into the right place. I'll need to hop onto the Dropbox
website to make this easier to visualize though.
</blockquote>
There are two folders, Category 1 and Category 2. Category 1 contains an image of a water drop and Category 2 contains an image of a box. There are also 10 images.<br />
<br />
1.jpg - boat - DROP boat<br />
2.jpg - fuse of a bomb - fuse BOX<br />
3.jpg - shadow of a person - DROP shadow<br />
4.jpg - ballot - ballot BOX<br />
5.jpg - lit match - match BOX<br />
6.jpg - dead bird - DROP dead<br />
7.jpg - glass of orange juice - juice BOX<br />
8.jpg - light switch in the off position - DROP down<br />
9.jpg - syringe - syringe DROP<br />
10.jpg - cheerios - BOX of cheerios<br />
<br />
This triggers the next chapter.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Chapter 19</h4>
Cleaning yielded fantastic results! As soon as everything was sorted into its
correct place, the power in the base was activated. There weren't any computers
to be seen, but the lights illuminated the interior of the base. Some spotlights
were shining onto one wall in particular... it seemed to be a bulletin board
filled with pictures, diagrams, and more time-machinish schematics. In the middle
was this poster:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8W57-0S6whdxweVGYuXR5ytERjGP2nPHcmMtRNP9GexXRdzdtHtFwMhyphenhyphenajStLELl-f3lCHedh1qu-pRVYSfjotXv8hhoLkCL1XOte0jOq70QSeAI1bLDzQvJoC_9E9SNGpM1MbIvQj10/s1600/shmodel2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8W57-0S6whdxweVGYuXR5ytERjGP2nPHcmMtRNP9GexXRdzdtHtFwMhyphenhyphenajStLELl-f3lCHedh1qu-pRVYSfjotXv8hhoLkCL1XOte0jOq70QSeAI1bLDzQvJoC_9E9SNGpM1MbIvQj10/s1600/shmodel2.png" /></a></div>
1. Korean - di and bi - DB<br />
2. Audi TT<br />
3. Subtract the smaller card from the larger card<br />
<br />
This gives a shortened url: <a href="http://db.tt/Q2J9J4">http://db.tt/Q2J9J4</a><br />
<br />
<h4>
Chapter 20</h4>
Rejected Dropbox Movie Ideas<br />
<br />
Notes.txt<br />
<blockquote>
Back in my original timeline, they made a feature film about Dropbox. As with all movies, there were a bunch of rejected ideas before people finally decided on the best approach. I've dug up a few of those from the archives for you to check out.
You should be able to extract a password from these documents. Once you have it, enter it at dropbox.com/dropquest2012/[password] (no spaces).</blockquote>
<br />
<br />
1.txt<br />
<blockquote>
During the summer right after his graduation from MIT, Drew Houston finds out that his rival from high school just inherited three Las Vegas casinos from his wealthy father: the Bellagio, the MGM Grand, and the Mirage. He approaches his old friend Arash Ferdowsi, and together they gather up a crew of elite software engineers to hack into the casinos' electronic systems and steal money under the guise of a file syncing company called Dropbox.</blockquote>
<br />
<br />
2.txt<br />
<blockquote>
We explore the beginnings of Drew and Arash's partnership as they scour the world for other extraordinary software engineers to join them at Dropbox. Together, they help each other harness their superhuman software engineering powers. Drew tries his best to convince Arash and the others that they can coexist with non-engineers, but Arash believes that they are superior to everyone else. The movie ends with Arash and a small faction of Dropbox splitting away because of this irresolvable conflict.</blockquote>
<br />
<br />
3.txt<br />
<blockquote>
Drew and Arash are in the early stages of developing Dropbox, but they realize they're running out of money. They have no potential investors, so they decide to learn how to count cards and make money by playing blackjack in Las Vegas.</blockquote>
<br />
<br />
4.txt<br />
<blockquote>
As young kids, Drew and Arash witness a train derailment in rural Ohio. Upon further investigation, they realize that the train was carrying an alien that had crash-landed on Earth. They use the alien's advanced technological knowledge to invent Dropbox's file syncing system.</blockquote>
<br />
<br />
5.txt<br />
<br />
<blockquote>
A virus breaks out in England that causes rage. Drew and Arash create Dropbox so the infected people will still have their files after recovering. The only problem is that in their rage, the infected people destroy their computers before they can install the Dropbox client.</blockquote>
<br />
6.txt<br />
<blockquote>
At the beginning of the movie, Arash approaches Drew about a psychological problem he's suffering from: he can see dead software companies. Instead of helping to cure Arash, Drew realizes they can use his ability to learn from the mistakes of those past companies and make sure Dropbox succeeds.</blockquote>
These are the storylines to popular movies<br />
<ol>
<li>Oceans 11 </li>
<li>X-Men: First Class</li>
<li>21</li>
<li>Super 8</li>
<li>28 Days Later</li>
<li>Sixth Sense</li>
</ol>
<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/dropquest2012/apollo13">https://www.dropbox.com/dropquest2012/apollo13</a><br />
<br />
<h4>
Chapter 21</h4>
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
After speaking the password out loud, a secret panel slid up to reveal a
computer with some weird looking text on the screen-- hmm... maybe
this is how we can track these guys down for good.
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<pre>THE QUICK WN F JUMS VE THE LAZY G
THA QOECK BRIWN FIX JOMPS IVAR THA LUZY DIG
THA QECK IWN FI JMS IVA THA LUZY IG
QUICK JUMS LAZY
QUICK BROWN JUMPS OVER LAZY
THU QIACK BREWN FEX JIMPS EVUR THU LOZY DEG
EHT KCIUQ BROWN FOX JUMPS REVO EHT LAZY DOG
THA QOECK WN F JOMS VA THA LUZY G
AHT KCEOQ BRIWN FIX JOMPS IVAR AHT LUZY DIG
</pre>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
As we examined the computer screen, a message came in from Benny.
</div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
<i>This looks like it was encrypted using yet another rejected Dropbox encryption scheme. This
one is more complicated than the other ones you've seen, so listen closely.
</i></div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
<i>
Drew and Arash decided that splitting files into blocks wasn't helping, so they dropped that
idea and decided to go with a more complicated encoding function. They brainstormed a bunch of
ideas, and eventually realized that they could apply multiple functions in succession on the
same file to hopefully make it more secure. They decided to keep 4 functions from their
brainstorming session:
</i></div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
<i>
Function 1 - Remove all letters that appear in the word DROPBOX<br />
Function 2 - Replace each vowel with the one before it (a→u, e→a, i→e, o→i, u→o)<br />
Function 5 - Reverse every word that starts with a letter in the second half of the alphabet.<br />
Function 9 - Remove all words that have 3 letters or less.
</i></div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
<i>
It looks like the time bandits encrypted the exact same sentence multiple times, using either one
or two of these functions (or the same function twice) each time. If you can figure out which functions
were applied to each encrypted version of the sentence, you should be able to get the password to
unlock their computer.
</i></div>
</blockquote>
This means that each line was encoded with either one or two functions. <br />
<br />
The unencrypted sentence is "THE QUICK BROWN FOX JUMPS OVER THE LAZY DOG" <br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Function 1</li>
<li> Function 2</li>
<li>Function 2, Function 1</li>
<li>Function 1, Function 9</li>
<li>Function 9</li>
<li>Function 2, Function 2</li>
<li>Function 5</li>
<li>Function 1, Function 2</li>
<li>Function 2, Function 5</li>
</ol>
Each one is a letter - 1, 2, 21, 19, 9, 22, 5, 12, 25<br />
This spells out ABUSIVELY<br />
<br />
Chapter 22<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Now that we got the password into their computer, maybe we can finally locate where
their actual base is. The screen suddenly displays a large map, and we're presented
with what seem like a bunch of math problems, but instead of numbers there are... flags?
Also on the screen are a list of websites, and a periodic table of the elements, and a
<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Dropquest%202012/Time%20Bandits%27%20Greatest%20Hits" target="_blank">collection of music</a>...?
What in the world is this?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWAYy0-oX3aSLRgBWhOrTSVPqU85T7x0NEezmGj3jbOuDIfBOCIV2vjSqVH1Bz5FqPULoGtV8FcBFp4E6lmt38CP-pCMSRjsNtiPSZphJ6eoHbeXgXyPMmEz0Q4sQDJS1HmbOR4CoZi5k/s1600/flags5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="53" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWAYy0-oX3aSLRgBWhOrTSVPqU85T7x0NEezmGj3jbOuDIfBOCIV2vjSqVH1Bz5FqPULoGtV8FcBFp4E6lmt38CP-pCMSRjsNtiPSZphJ6eoHbeXgXyPMmEz0Q4sQDJS1HmbOR4CoZi5k/s320/flags5.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZU_odQJ1COZD1hP0JE2ab-vcZBBhP5CIHlctcCZTbsjjaFu44AvzQMtg2am01u5Q55XjaLnYvexgnQQXFnir8BJhnCwCv5amrlhE4yPJDFJUkhxbjXnHhQ_iCBRm3Npib27gj4VqNYlg/s1600/flags1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="53" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZU_odQJ1COZD1hP0JE2ab-vcZBBhP5CIHlctcCZTbsjjaFu44AvzQMtg2am01u5Q55XjaLnYvexgnQQXFnir8BJhnCwCv5amrlhE4yPJDFJUkhxbjXnHhQ_iCBRm3Npib27gj4VqNYlg/s320/flags1.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQvr6qkcEiA_0pvXLarqlhMEev3vbdevHesgIIq0qwqx5y7Vx1Q9RRQtR3CaJ3aQSeGE2PBMoliEhTkrordZ4JTgzLLO5S8uCF-3-Nlnkv_wD1lzPqeZIX-0dEwt4-GyE12Qyg8xOhat8/s1600/flags7.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="53" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQvr6qkcEiA_0pvXLarqlhMEev3vbdevHesgIIq0qwqx5y7Vx1Q9RRQtR3CaJ3aQSeGE2PBMoliEhTkrordZ4JTgzLLO5S8uCF-3-Nlnkv_wD1lzPqeZIX-0dEwt4-GyE12Qyg8xOhat8/s320/flags7.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm8h9Y-kbt9_SLm_hyphenhyphenw0NCH5xyH5SZ45cV9YvSWDNncIJZA4nJ_tR65XPeh0RDDtlyGo3gIHeUErRmMrejXHXVurDPS91xM1vI6DQz6EUqouhNeZ2qOCLp7vNddn86eVjaNjpmfsGJ-4o/s1600/flags6.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="53" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm8h9Y-kbt9_SLm_hyphenhyphenw0NCH5xyH5SZ45cV9YvSWDNncIJZA4nJ_tR65XPeh0RDDtlyGo3gIHeUErRmMrejXHXVurDPS91xM1vI6DQz6EUqouhNeZ2qOCLp7vNddn86eVjaNjpmfsGJ-4o/s320/flags6.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOi3rbnTG5ICVWTj9CWELO37VCji30G45JXO9pItZ6TF9NF0VcmYRw_74RvwXlAEVRWNIX3nWvfUZLElRBI1JACa90YxvWeh1Sk48NbQDhqr2AKqqC2Nn83J9-I6BSo0-tYX_GB84k9Q/s1600/flags2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="53" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOi3rbnTG5ICVWTj9CWELO37VCji30G45JXO9pItZ6TF9NF0VcmYRw_74RvwXlAEVRWNIX3nWvfUZLElRBI1JACa90YxvWeh1Sk48NbQDhqr2AKqqC2Nn83J9-I6BSo0-tYX_GB84k9Q/s320/flags2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
</blockquote>
Use the ccTLD code for each country to get the associated periodic element and use that for the calculations and the solution is the corresponding midi file<br />
<br />
[(Cuba * Namibia) + Madagascar] mod 163<br />
cu-copper-29, na-sodium-11, mg-magnesium-12 <br />
((29 * 11) + 12) mod 163 = 5<br />
<br />
[(Micronesia * Senegal) * Georgia] mod 23<br />
fm-fermium-100, sn-tin-50, ge-germanium-32 <br />
(100 / 50) * 32 mod 23 = 18<br />
<br />
[Portugal - Russia - Liechtenstein] mod 18 <br />
pt-platinum-78 ru-ruthenium-44 li-lithium-3<br />
[78 - 44 - 3] mod 18 = 13<br />
[(Nicaragua * Seychelles) / Macao] mod 5<br />
ni-nickel-28, sc-scandium-21, mo-molybdenum-42<br />
[28 * 21 / 42] mod 5 = 14<br />
<br />
[(Bosnia + India) / Brazil] mod 2<br />
ba-barium-56, in-indium-49, br-bromine-35 <br />
[(56 + 49) / 35] mod 2 = 1<br />
<br />
NOTES (“,” means snare hit):<br />
01: C E D ,<br />
02: C A G ,<br />
03: C A B , A G E <br />
04: E G ,<br />
05: , E G<br />
06: D E , F<br />
07: C A, E<br />
08: , A B B A G E<br />
09: , E E F<br />
10: F A C ,<br />
11: A C E<br />
12: B E , F<br />
13: , E A F<br />
14: , A B B A G E<br />
15: , E G<br />
16: A G ,<br />
17: C E D ,<br />
18: D E , F<br />
19: D E C , D E<br />
20: D E C H D<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Corresponding these to the midi files gives:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">,EG / DE,F / ,EAF / ,ABBAGE / CED,</span><br />
<br />
The missing letters spell out BADGE (perhaps they made a mistake with midi 8 and 14 being the same?).<br />
<br />
<h4>
Chapter 23 </h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
This rabbit hole is getting pretty intense, but I have a feeling that we're extremely
close to our quarry. After submitting the last password, we're greeted with a giant
database with a bunch of odd symbols and gibberish. There's only one thing we can make
out: <a href="http://www.twitter.com/dropquestalpha" target="_blank">http://www.twitter.com/dropquestalpha</a> </blockquote>
<br />
<br />
Alpha: 18.836043, -72.545993 (Haiti)<br />
Beta: 30.836043, -60.545993 (Somewhere in Atlantic Ocean)<br />
Gamma: 14.836043, -36.545993 (Somewhere in Atlantic Ocean)<br />
Delta 2.836043, -48.545993 (Somewhere in Atlantic Ocean)<br />
Epsilon: -9.163957, -36.545993 (PE-214, PE, Brazil)<br />
Zeta: -25.163957, -60.545993 (Ruta Provincial 9, Formosa, Argentina)<br />
Eta “??????”<br />
Theta: -25.163957, -84.545993 (Somewhere in Pacific Ocean)<br />
Iota: -9.163957, -108.545993 (Somewhere in Pacific Ocean)<a href="https://twitter.com/#%21/DropquestEta"></a><br />
Kappa: 2.836043, -96.545993 (Somewhere in Pacific Ocean)<br />
Lambda: 14.836043, -108.545993 (North Pacific Ocean)<br />
Mu: 30.836043, -84.545993 (Unnamed Rd, Brainbridge, GA, 39819) <br />
Nu: -25.163957, -96.545993 (Somewhere in Pacific Ocean)<br />
Xi: -41.163957, -72.545993 (Ruta U99-V Puerto Varas, Los Lagos, Chile)<br />
Omi: -25.163957, -48.545993 (SP-230 São Paulo, Brazil )<br />
Omicron: doesn’t exist<br />
Pi: 49.156113, 9.714661<br />
Rho: 52.359405, 5.221231<br />
Sigma: <span class="location">51.778936, -1.268085</span><br />
Tau: 25.163957, -84.545993<br />
Upsilon doesn’t exist<br />
Phi Doesn’t exist<br />
Chi doesn’t exist<br />
Psi doesn’t exist<br />
Omega “Hans Wurst” -- no coordinates<br />
<br />
I get the following <a href="http://g.co/maps/up444" target="_blank">map</a>. It looks like it follows a Golden spiral whose center is somewhere in Peru. The most well known landmark there is Machu Picchu<br />
<br />
<h4>
Endgame</h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
We descended onto the base, nestled within the center of Machu Picchu. The ruins were
the same as I'd remembered them in pictures, but there was a large building in the
center of the complex. There weren't that many people-- maybe 10 at most. It
was really bizarre that this was the first chance I got to really watch how people
carried on with their lives in the future... but nothing seemed really out of the
ordinary. I'd guess that the base functions as a large factory of sorts. There was
heavy machinery all over the place, and the people occupying the base seemed to all
be proficient with mechanical stuff. As luck would have it, they were eating dinner!
Smelled of mac and cheese, but I wasn't curious enough to find out... because they
left the time machine they were building unwatched! With the grace of a ninja, I
slipped from shadow to shadow until I was only meters away from the time machine.
I knew these schematics... they either stole them from myself or Benny. I crept up
slowly and began to detach the nearly complete super-special, quantum sapphire
Dropbox core from their machine. With a click, it came right out, and an alarm
began to blare!
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
We sprinted out of their compound as quickly as we could and hopped into my time
machine, before they gave chase in their own vehicles. Just then, our communicator
began ringing and a voice came through:
</div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="benny" style="text-align: left;">
<i>Due to the time currents, you can only return to the past from one spot in the world--
known as the time gate. You'll need to think through your journey to figure out where it is--!
</i></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The call was abruptly cut off but an image was transferred to our screen. We were left
to race across the world while fumbling to get the core in place. But where do we go?
How do we make sense of all this while being chased?
</div>
</blockquote>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_8yq2fSL1fmr2nWynjNVIo9hJR84qFTLN4fkeEPXgHNsszySUMNuCbWF5m088V47NsNqMdDLnZeTdcyfZdU3idMcYdalYr-huKGRMGOH4ALXdjG-MeDbcSW40AFkJKNeXj1FdFoZ3_E8/s1600/crossword.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_8yq2fSL1fmr2nWynjNVIo9hJR84qFTLN4fkeEPXgHNsszySUMNuCbWF5m088V47NsNqMdDLnZeTdcyfZdU3idMcYdalYr-huKGRMGOH4ALXdjG-MeDbcSW40AFkJKNeXj1FdFoZ3_E8/s1600/crossword.png" /></a></div>
<br />
Hint 1 - ORDERLOGSBYSIZE<br />
Hint 2 - NINELETTERWORD<br />
<br />
Logs Ordered by Size (smallest first)<br />
Chapter 6.txt - nominally<br />
Chapter 10.txt - timepiece<br />
Chapter 8.txt - histories<br />
Chapter 7.txt - constants - weirdness<br />
Chapter 1.txt - obnoxious<br />
Chapter 13.txt - rebounded<br />
Chapter 2.txt - dominated<br />
Chapter 18.txt - seemingly<br />
Chapter 9.txt - objective<br />
Chapter 5.txt - fastening<br />
Chapter 23.txt - literally<br />
Chapter 21.txt - operation<br />
Chapter 11.txt - generated<br />
Chapter 3.txt - somewhere<br />
Chapter 20.txt - beguiling<br />
Chapter 4.txt - yesterday<br />
Chapter 19.txt - continent<br />
Chapter 14.txt - headaches<br />
Chapter 15.txt - acquiring<br />
Chapter 17.txt - pertained<br />
Chapter 16.txt - certainly<br />
Chapter 22.txt - educative<br />
Chapter 12.txt - examining<br />
<br />
Answer is COLOSSEUM<br />
<br />
<h4>
Epilogue </h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
Rome was in shambles. What made it particularly odd was that even though a lot of the skyscrapers
had toppled, a lot of the ancient ruins were still completely intact. We landed as quickly as
we could in the center of the colosseum without breaking the time machine with our landing.
Within the expanses of the arena, I began the sequence to perform the time jump. The time
bandits were within sight-- we only had a few seconds to make this all happen. The countdown
began. "5..." The time bandits landed several paces away from us, and began to jump out of
their vehicle. "4... 3..." They began sprinting at us with full force, brandishing weapons.
"2..." They began to take aim. "1..."
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
All of a sudden, a bright explosion took place right in front of them, stunning them momentarily.
As our machine lurched backward to return us to our own time, I could only make out a silhouette
in front of me, smiling. With a whoosh, reality distorted around us and the machine spirited us
back to my workshop, where the room looked just as I had left it. We sat there for a few minutes
before we finally composed ourselves to get out.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Who was the mystery man? Could it have been Benny? Regardless, I now know how fragile time is, and
that the Dropbox core shouldn't be misused. I learned so much from my time travels... but instead
of hopping around to witness it, I'm going to make it my job to prevent whatever catastrophe is
going to occur years from now. I placed a tarp over the time machine, and slowly walked away.
What a ridiculous day!
</div>
</blockquote>
<br />
<h4>
Congratulations </h4>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
You've traveled back and forth from the future and have solved the secrets of
the super-special, quantum, sapphire Dropbox core! Congratulations, time traveler!
You have uncovered many secrets and puzzles that many thought impossible.
Throughout your quest, you've amassed a total of 1 GB of space.
</div>
<br />
You placed <big>#47633</big> with
a time of <b>08:52:34</b>
<br />
<br />
Your achievement's been immortalized on the <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/dropquest2012/wall_of_fame">Dropquest Wall of Fame</a>!
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Awesome job!
</div>
<br />
Thanks for participating in Dropquest! We'll see you next time. </blockquote>
<br />
So that's a pretty awful completion time but I started it and left it open while doing other things in the middle (i.e. playing League of Legends, eating, etc.).pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-46524085416033206672012-02-01T15:09:00.005-05:002012-02-01T15:38:44.281-05:00Cyborg Ninja SwordI first drafted up the sword in Illustrator based on reference images and some info I found that said the sword was based on a Japanese chokuto. I actually made some modifications to the design as I went along but the blade and handle length stayed the same.<br />
<br />
I started off with 1/4" poplar and used it for the blade and tang.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6693592655_083642b253_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6693592655_083642b253_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
The handle was made by sandwiching layers of sintra. It's glued together using Gorilla Glue.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7030/6693594689_91a4929553_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7030/6693594689_91a4929553_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
The tsuba was made by sandwiching layers of sintra together. I had initially started with 4 layers of sintra but it looked way too thick so I remade it using just 2 layers. The sintra I'm using is 1/8" thick so the final thickness was 1/4".<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6693595011_bacaa1d6c9_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6693595011_bacaa1d6c9_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7008/6693595309_3a96c9bc24_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6693595673_e06d7cf8b7_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6693595673_e06d7cf8b7_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
The other parts were all made using sintra as well. Body filler was used to smooth it out.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7020/6693596047_be4904eb40_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
The entire thing was primered and sanded down. I used Zinsser Bullseye primer since I was at my parents house and they had some laying around. I'm sure regular primer would work but I figured I'd go ahead and use primer specifically for wood since it was there.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7023/6693596501_b193f57fa4_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7023/6693596501_b193f57fa4_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
This was then painted using RustOleum Metallic Silver. The handle and other pieces were painted with acrylic gold paint. I buy the cheap $1 ones from the craft store. I actually didn't originally intend to make all the parts removable but I thought it would be neat to keep them separate.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6693596931_7d61fdb1f3_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6693596931_7d61fdb1f3_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/6693597311_296a1c3eb4_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7174/6693597749_e154a46d4f_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7149/6693598125_725d0fe5d6_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6693598385_da61d06c29_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
Once I thought about wrapping the handle using the traditional handle wrapping method, I realized that I had to make the endcap (kashira). I watched this <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apeeWRqSQ1U" target="_blank">Youtube video</a> of someone making this out of wood and used a similar method.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7166/6802497347_9226e84e4b_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7163/6802498249_4148512db1_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
The slot on the handle is necessary so the tsukaito can actually slip through.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6802498815_2a26f45b7a_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
In the interest of trying to keep it as accurate as possible I folded about 50 hishigami. It's not that hard, just time consuming.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6802499443_2ec31b96c0_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6802499443_2ec31b96c0_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
After some filling, sanding, and priming, the kashira was ready for paint. The part closest to the tsuba was made using some thin sheet styrene.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7151/6802500115_33b09c88aa_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7151/6802500115_33b09c88aa_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7025/6802501097_980084df5c_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7031/6802501897_c9b12c79fd_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
It took about and hour or two to wrap the tsukamaki. It's a lot harder than I thought because you really have to pull it super tight. For the wrapping I followed this <a href="http://www.tsukamaki.net/tsuka/" target="_blank">tutorial</a>.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/6802502477_96db4a3e12_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
Final sword painted in both disassembled and assembled form.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7169/6802502915_dd40268b75_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7025/6802503393_41598a087e_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6802504095_0164a68ef3_z.jpg" />
</div>pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-32856845032939983642012-02-01T14:43:00.002-05:002012-03-02T03:52:22.120-05:00Cyborg Ninja Helmet: Part 3The master received a bit more spot putty in a few areas before getting some primer.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/6693582275_55b02b4f27_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/6693582275_55b02b4f27_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7171/6693582735_9f5fac081c_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
Here I double check what it looks like put together.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6693583111_f26dbef090_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6693583111_f26dbef090_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/6693583419_cb826014f5_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<br />
And a couple more coats of primer before getting wet sanded. I should probably get it even smoother in the future - I know a lot of people sand masters up to 1000 grit and buff it.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6693583825_39e8f90ce8_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6693583825_39e8f90ce8_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7156/6693584149_e813e190a7_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/6693584479_b713358278_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/6693584479_b713358278_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/6693584783_72b65493bb_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
And then I start the daunting task of making my first molds. I've never made any sort of mold before so this was a huge learning process.<br />
<br />
I start by creating some risers and adding clay on the edges of parts. You have to use NSP clay or else it will react with platinum cure silicone rubber and inhibit the curing process.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7021/6693585145_a61e65eed6_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7021/6693585145_a61e65eed6_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6693585629_8cbd209169_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6693585997_30e5dc14d4_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6693585997_30e5dc14d4_z.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
I start off with a layer of thinned Rebound 25 to get the print coat. I then used a second coat of regular Rebound 25 before adding thickener to the subsequent layers.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6693586383_51048fbb1a_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6693586383_51048fbb1a_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
I used a paint palette to make some registration keys. I also made some using the lid of a large Duplo container that made cylindrical pucks which I later cut up into quarters.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6693586693_88143bdea1_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/6693587027_f0c471a77b_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/6693587027_f0c471a77b_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
The registration keys were placed while the top layer of silicone on the part was still wet.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7149/6693587329_bb54b9fb8b_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7149/6693587329_bb54b9fb8b_z.jpg" /></a><br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
</div>
<br />
Then I covered it all with some more silicone rubber.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7021/6693587673_4855968481_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/6693588157_783481f284_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
Mother molds were created using Plasti-Paste. This stuff looks like mashed potatoes and gravy when you're mixing it up. I didn't wipe down my final layer with solvent do it ended up jagged. I'll probably take the time to wipe it down with solvent in the future.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7024/6693588495_60a5382d15_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
I did have a few areas between the silicone rubber and master where I had some gaps in the undercuts so I went back and added some more silicone.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6693588805_5a7ab93c74_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7015/6693589123_53cefd7104_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
The three parts separated - the mother mold, the silicone rubber, and the master.<br />
<br />
<div id="allsizes-photo">
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6693589447_76c2e6fa58_z.jpg" />
</div>
<br />
The detail in the mold was pretty good.<br />
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<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6693589771_39ba6bdacb_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6693589771_39ba6bdacb_z.jpg" /></a><br />
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All 5 molds with the master taken out. I did have to cut two of the mother molds in half because it was so difficult to take out. I initially thought I could get away with one piece mother molds for all the parts but that wasn't the case. <br />
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The first pull from the mold. I used Smoothcast 65D to slush cast them. It was my first time casting so there were some areas that went on too thick. I tried to do multiple parts at once but it's really difficult to get all the parts an even thickness that way.<br />
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Subsequent casts came out a bit better in terms of having even thickness in most areas. I'm pretty satisfied with the detail captured on the back.<br />
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The casts above were all for customers so I made another one for my own copy. I first mark all the areas for filling and fixing. These areas were then filled using some body filler.<br />
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Some primer and then it was time for spot putty to fix the more minor imperfections.<br />
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It's too cold outside so all the painting was done inside in case you're wondering why there's a drop cloth on the wood floor. I knew there's a reason I keep around those empty plastic containers! A couple of layers of gray primer and then wet sanded up to 600 grit.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7142/6802499739_a20776daf8_z.jpg" />
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The plan for connecting the pieces of the helmet together was to use neodymium magnets. I got mine from <a href="http://www.kjmagnetics.com/" target="_blank">K&J Magnetics</a>.<br />
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I ordered ZD3 (x10), D9H2 (x4), D83 (x2)<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6802500413_60891ca32e_z.jpg" />
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And here's the placement of the magnets. For areas that needed to overlap I cut a piece of sintra to make a tab. I had initially planned on having some of the magnets connect side to side but it drastically cuts down on the pulling force so I ended up using the tabs so they could get the full surface area and keep the stronger force. The magnets are glued in using super glue and the other side has some padding to prevent it from scratching the paint when the cheek pieces are on the outside and to add some padding on the inside where it will contact my head.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7142/6802501249_82bfe7f317_z.jpg" />
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The helmet was painted in about 5-6 coats of RustOleum Gloss White paint. The final coat was wet sanded up to 600 grit before gloss coating with RustOleum Crystal Clear Gloss.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/6802501775_b94757d8d3_z.jpg" />
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I designed the decals in Illustrator and printed it out on waterslide decal paper made for laser printers. I made sure to get the clear paper. I brushed on some Micro-Sol to help the decals conform to the surface better. You have to be about 6 inches away before you can kind of see the edge and even then it's pretty faint.<br />
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The sensors were made using 1/4" and 3/4" acrylic rod. For now they're painted using acrylic paints but I'm planning on adding some LEDs.<br />
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<br />pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-43470173123385040222011-12-12T13:43:00.000-05:002012-02-01T15:22:33.986-05:00Cyborg Ninja Helmet: Part 2After I cut everything apart I started to work on cleaning up the edges and filling in the gap that resulted from using the Dremel to cut it apart.<br />
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I taped everything together to check for what areas needed more work.<br />
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<a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6050/6325409928_4613f747a0_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6050/6325409928_4613f747a0_z.jpg" /></a><br />
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You can see here that there's a gap in the fit of some pieces in the horizontal direction, namely the bottom pieces. This is because they're under stress but because it was one piece before it wasn't evident. When it gets cut apart they naturally flex in a bit to relieve the stress. I can just skim some body filler on those areas later.<br />
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The way that I'm fixing edges is by using the "bondo squish" method. I'm using aluminum foil there because body filler doesn't stick to foil very easily. I cover the edges in some body filler and just lay it down on a flat surface. When the body filler dries I have a nice flat surface and both sides are also parallel with each other.
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For the gap where two pieces come together I had to employ some clamps. I covered the clamps in aluminum foil too so they don't get covered in body filler.
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There's a round piece in the front center of the helmet that will eventually contain an LED. I cut a circle from sintra and hot glued it the forehead piece of the helmet. The final sizing was tweaked a bit to match available sizing of acrylic rod so the OD is 1 1/4" and the ID is 3/4".
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I probably should have done this a lot earlier. The two cheek pieces are not totally identical because of it being cut out with a Dremel and I can't make perfect cuts with it yet. So I used my original paper template and made two sintra templates which I sandwiched together and finished the edges together so they're more accurate.
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I then heat formed them to the actual cheek pieces so I can get the cheek pieces to match these templates. That made the cheek pieces more symmetrical with each other.<br />
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Here's the forehead piece with the sintra circle from earlier. It was hot glued into place and then skimmed with body filler to create the bevel.<br />
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<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7141/6500098651_635b777468_z.jpg" /><br />
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For the "bondo squish" method I use a brush and some chapstick to coat one surface, apply some body filler to the other side, and press together. The side with chapstick comes off without any body filler sticking to it.
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Here's the forehead piece connected to the back of the helmet. The connection made between those two pieces is really quite nice thanks to the above method.<br />
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Mockup of the pieces together. The cheek pieces still need to have the central eye area cut out. <br />
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I cut out some sintra pieces. <br />
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Which are then hot glued in place and then skimmed over in body filler before being sanded down. <br />
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More body filler followed by more sanding. <br />
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Detail shot of the central eye area. Still needs a bit of work on the cheek pieces. It needs to be widened up a bit to match the top. <br />
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Cutting out some more pieces out of sintra for the smaller sensors. <br />
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Here are some of those sintra pieces fit in place. They're pressure fit for now. <br />
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I had to cut some of them in half where pieces come apart. These were hot glued in place and skimmed with body filler to create the bevel. All of these pieces are sunk 1/8" - the thickness of a the sintra I'm using (I used a circle of sintra as a gauge). <br />
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I realized that the center line wasn't actually straight in the back so I had to redraw it. Coincidentally the pentagon wasn't symmetrical so I just redid all of those detail areas. Two layers of masking tape makes it a bit easier to work along. <br />
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The lines were cut using a dremel with a cutoff wheel and a steady hand. I went back over it with a small hand file to clean it up. The circles were marked using a drafting template from an engineering class. <br />
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Circles cut out using a dremel.<br />
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Sintra circles inserted and hot glued in place. <br />
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Again, skimmed in body filler. I find it's easy to use a utility/hobby knife after it sets to trim and clean it up (for me is about after 10-15 minutes). Timing will vary based on how much hardener you use but it's best to carve when it's firm but before it fully cures. <br />
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Another test fit of all the pieces together. This should be the final iteration. Every time I make some small change it messes with the fit of the pieces and this time when I corrected the lines where the pieces meet on the side (namely where the cheek meets the forehead piece and the back of the helmet) it really messed it up. It took me about 2 hours to get the fit to this level. Referencing some earlier images it seems like the fit isn't quite as good but I think at this point it'll still work fine. <br />
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Back of the helmet. The top hole contains a piece of 1/4" acrylic rod which is what the small sensors will be made of.<br />
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The small button parts are 1/4" and the beveled hole has an OD of 1/2". </div>
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</div>pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-22401588493132199772011-11-06T06:57:00.004-05:002012-02-01T15:24:36.962-05:00Cyborg Ninja Helmet: Part 1I'll preface this by saying that I have only played Metal Gear Solid and none of the sequels. However, I loved the character design for Cyborg Ninja and I decided to make this my next cosplay project. I'm starting with the iconic helmet.<br />
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I found a version of the helmet that someone had made and unfolded in Pepakura. I printed it out and proceeded to make it out of cardstock. The only thing is that it was designed too narrow so it would end up being too tall if the width was made to fit me.<br />
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I decided I'd give 3D modeling a shot and started creating the helmet in Blender. I made the helmet in one piece for 2 reasons - I wasn't confident in modeling multiple pieces that need to fit together and it would be easier to model just a single piece. The plan is to make the helmet and then cut it apart later.<br />
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I got a bunch of reference images and took some pictures of my head with the helmet superimposed so I could use it as reference when making the 3D model. I don't really have a background with 3D modeling so I had to read a lot of tutorials first.<br />
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Next, the finished model is exported to Pepakura and unfolded. This is then printed out onto 110 lb. cardstock and then cut out.<br />
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The pieces are scribed with a ruler along all the lines that need to be folded so the folds are really crisp. The pieces are then glued using regular Elmer's white glue. A thin layer is optimal so you don't have to hold it for minutes waiting for it to dry.<br />
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The way the helmet is designed I can't put it on to check the fit so I was only able to check for an approximate fit when half of the helmet was glued. The helmet narrows in size around the mouth area so it can't just slip on.<br />
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I actually made three different Pepakura models. The first one was using a Pepakura model someone made and unfolded but after making the forehead piece I didn't really like the shape so I decided to make my own from the beginning stage of making a model. The second one was a bit small so I rescaled and the final one came out the right size.<br />
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Here's the profile of the Pepakura model.<br />
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The supplies I'm using for resin and fiberglassing. The chip brushes were from Harbor Freight. Be sure to wear a respirator when using resin and fiberglass. A simple dust mask doesn't stop the organic fumes.<br />
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The entire outside of the helmet is coated with a layer of resin and then the inside gets some resin and about 2 layers of fiberglass cloth. Make sure to tap the resin into the fiberglass and not just simply brush it on. 2StoryProps has a <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2011/06/how2-all-about-fiberglass.html" target="_blank">nice tutorial</a> on the process complete with videos. Also, resin can eat through certain plastics including that blue cup you see there. I know some people use plastic cups so I guess these were just cheaper plastic. I had some Yogurt containers and that worked fine.<br />
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When the fiberglass and resin dries the helmet becomes very stiff but still remains very light. <br />
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Body filler is then put all over the helmet and the cycle of body filler and sanding begins. Spreading the body filler in thin layers helps to minimize the amount of air bubbles.<br />
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I started off using Bondo brand body filler but it's not the best to work with in terms of spreading and sanding. I heard about Evercoat Z-Grip from a friend a while back and decided to give it a try. It's specifically made for automotive use so you can only find it at certain stores. I got mine at Carquest.<br />
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Here's some body filler being mixed up. It has a slight greenish tint. I also picked up a spreader which is made of flexible rubber so you can pop off the hardened body filler when you're done. <br />
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<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6234/6317839146_3fb347fdd8_z.jpg" />
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After a few rounds of body filler I sprayed a coat of gray primer to make it easier to see what needs work. The gray primer I'm using is Rust-Oleum Automotive self etching primer since I had some left over from working with resin model kits.<br />
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<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6035/6317839306_a758be86f8_z.jpg" />
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I decided to pick up a contour gauge so I could make the helmet more symmetrical. I also played around and drew on what the final helmet would look like.<br />
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Some areas are patched and then sanded again. Here you can see the various layers of body filler and primer. Light gray is Bondo, dark gray is primer and the light green is Evercoat Z-Grip.<br />
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Another coat of gray primer to check for defects. Then it's time for the spot putty for small defects. It was a lot cheaper to get the super huge size of spot putty.<br />
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A coat of brown primer. Here I'm using Krylon brand since it's cheaper.<br />
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If you look closely you can see that I filled in the right cheek (left side of screen) a bit more to match the left.<br />
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I made a paper template to get the shape I need to cut out. I think I made at least 10 different versions. You can also see the string that I'm using to mark straight lines for reference on the helmet.<br />
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<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6098/6317840244_95eaf73525_z.jpg" />
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I tried using a Dremel to make the lines but it was difficult to get a really straight line which is evidenced by the horizontal and vertical lines. The pentagon was first drawn on paper using <a href="http://www.knowledgerush.com/kr/encyclopedia/Pentagon/" target="_blank">this method</a> and then traced it on to the helmet. I used two layers of masking tape for a bit of added thickness and then scribed it using a scriber then went over it with a small needle file.<br />
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<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6230/6317840428_75b2af78e4_z.jpg" />
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The pieces were cut apart using a Dremel. It was actually cut apart before the last picture but I forgot to take a picture of the pieces until after. The problem of using the Dremel is that the cutting tool isn't the thickness of a piece of paper so you end up with approximately a 2mm gap in between all pieces.<br />
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<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6042/6317840592_d09fc944c7_z.jpg" /><br />
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I'm currently working on filling in all the gaps between pieces so it comes together cleanly. I tried the helmet after it was cut apart and it does indeed fit me. It's snug around the ears but it's not too bad. The reason for this is that there's about 0.5cm extra thickness due to the body filler to get the outside smooth. I probably don't need it this thick if I cast it. My initial plan was to cast this if there's some interest so if that happens there will be more room around the ears.pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-12534295099934131042011-02-06T20:21:00.003-05:002012-06-28T18:57:17.011-04:00Roy Mustang Cosplay<div style="text-align: center;">
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Have you ever wanted to make your own Fullmetal Alchemist military uniform? I will detail exactly how I made my own from scratch. I will prove that you don't need a lot of experience (this is actually the first thing I've ever sewn by myself) and you also don't need fancy things like commercial patterns and dressforms. I drafted all the patterns myself so if you are attempting to make your own make sure to get your measurements correct. First off I want to thank <a href="http://andsewingishalfthebattle.com/tutorials/49-fullmetal-alchemist-military-uniform-pattern-tutorial">AndSewingisHalftheBattle</a> for all the info they had on how to make the uniform. I used it as a guide and made a few adjustments and improvements along the way.<br />
<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Components</span></h2>
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<b>Jacket </b>- the jacket will give you the most trouble by far. It's quite boxy in shape and has an overlapping front panel that had a fold down rectangle. There are two epaulets, one on each shoulder. The cuffs fold up and have a V-shaped slit in them.<br />
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<b>Pants </b>- fairly regular looking slacks except that they appear to be a bit wider at the bottom where they tuck into the boots.<br />
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<b>Butt cape</b> - this is what everyone else calls the thing that wraps around the waist and goes all the way down to the shins. Open on the front and the back has a long slit running from the bottom up to about 1/3 of the way down from the top.<br />
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<b>Boots</b> - there's some debate on what type of boots they wear. All the source images I found showed the boots as being totally smooth meaning there are no laces.<br />
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<b>White gloves</b> - not much to say here. Find white cotton gloves that fit, nothing fancy.<br />
<blockquote>
<b><i>I have a link to the PDF file of the pattern I drafted so make sure to check out that file. Just scroll down a bit to find it.</i></b></blockquote>
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Materials</span></h2>
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<h3>
Fabric</h3>
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<ul><br />
<li>Royal Blue Bottomweight Canvas from Jo-Ann Fabrics</li>
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<li>Shadow colored extra wide double fold bias tape (Wright's) - I used 3 packages</li>
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<li>gray cotton/poly fabric from Wal-Mart - half a yard is plenty</li>
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<li>heavy and medium weight interfacing</li>
</ul>
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<h3>
Other materials</h3>
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<ul><br />
<li>Gold cord from Jo-Ann</li>
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<li>Various buttons<br /><ul><br />
<li>6 star buttons for the epaulet</li>
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<li>4 gold circular buttons, two for the epaulet and two for the front rectangular flap</li>
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<li>2 large flat grey/silver buttons for the waist</li>
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<li>2 small grey/silver buttons for the front of the butt cape, sits in the square</li>
</ul>
</li>
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<li>White gloves from Walgreens</li>
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<li>Black boots from the thrift store</li>
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<li>ribbon from Walmart<br /><ul><br />
<li>need green, white, yellow, red</li>
</ul>
</li>
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<li>plastic from a yogurt container</li>
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<li>aluminum can</li>
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<li>safety pins for the backs of the pins</li>
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<li>hot glue gun with hot glue sticks</li>
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<li>*wig for those who do not have hair similar to whichever character you're cosplaying as</li>
</ul>
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<b>Total cost: ~$70</b><br />
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I went with the bottomweight canvas because it's got some weight to it. Military uniforms tend to be nice and crisp so you need to get interfacing for a few areas which I'll talk more about later.<br />
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One of the things you may be wondering at this point is "how much fabric do I need?" I bought 8 yards of the royal blue fabric but I ended up using just over 5 yards of it. I'm about 5' 5" so for most people 6 yards should be enough. A word of caution though - always err on the side of buying more since you don't want to be working on this the night before a convention only to find you ran out of fabric and the fabric store is closed. Also, if you want to save money sign up for Jo-Ann's e-mail list since they frequently have print out coupons. You should never buy anything there without at least a 40% off coupon.<br />
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I used bias tape for all the trim on the uniform but I had a hard time matching the gray of the bias tape with fabric that I needed for the belt part of the butt cape. I've seen some people make all the bias tape themselves which would make it a lot easier when trying to match all the trim color. I don't have the tools for making my own bias tape so that's why I had to find separate fabric for the other areas where I needed wider lengths of fabric.<br />
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At this point I want to discuss the colors for the uniform. I'm basing the costume on the art from the manga which FMA Brotherhood follows so you can use either one for sources. The color of the uniform is generally considered a royal blue and the trim is <b>gray</b>, not silver. Boots are black, gloves are white. You're free to pick a different shade of blue but it's always good to take a picture of the fabric before buying since you want the cosplay to photograph well in addition to looking awesome in person.<br />
<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Drafting the patterns</span></h2>
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I have a math minor but anyone who's done any amount of sewing will know that having a math degree is a totally moot point and does not make you a better seamster/seamstress. It does help to be able to visualize things in your head if you're planning on <i>drafting</i> the pattern. There is another method called <i>draping</i> in which you literally drape fabric over a dressform or dummy that's about the same shape as you and then make your patterns that way. As an engineer it's more intuitive for me to plan everything out before proceeding so drafting is the method I used. No matter which method you use, it's generally a good idea to use muslin to make a prototype since it's pretty cheap. I skipped this step so I guess it's not totally necessary.<br />
<h3>
Here's a link to the <a href="http://animeinsightsarchive.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/fma-uniform-pattern3.pdf">FMA Uniform Pattern</a> I drew up in Illustrator.</h3>
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I didn't include pants because they're not that difficult and it's easier for you to find a pair of your own pants to base it on. Please note that all of the measurements I provided are for <b>myself</b>. I'm 5' 5" and weigh 135 lbs. so those measurements will obviously not work for everyone. It should serve as a very good starting point for anyone that's planning on making this. I haven't included any seam allowances in that file.<br />
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I found a really good site for <a href="http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-04.html">drafting sleeves</a> (apparently this link is now dead but I'm sure this information shouldn't be too difficult to find).<br />
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Always prewash your fabric. This prevents things from getting warped if it shrinks during washing. One thing most people say is to not let it dry in the dryer. I tossed it in there for a bit but took it out when it was still damp and let it air dry.<br />
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This is what 8 yards of fabric rolled out looks like.<br />
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<img alt="" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7222/7007583831_6dd6ab17eb_z.jpg" /></div>
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I taped a bunch of pieces of paper together to draw up the pattern.<br />
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I drew out all the patterns on paper first and then after I had everything measured out I transferred them to the fabric using chalk. I used a few different methods for areas that were not just straight lines. The most complicated method was used on the sleeve caps which involved measuring out different distances and then drawing a series of arcs. The collar area was drawn using a traced outline of a collar from one of my shirts. The curve for the sleeve opening was free handed (not a recommended method).<br />
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One important thing to keep in mind is that when you transfer your pattern, draw in seam allowances that are the same all the way around to ensure the final thing comes out nice and neat. I believe standard seam allowance is 5/8 in. You can also make V-shaped cuts to help with lining up two pieces that need to be joined. Much of this information can be found in other sources so I won't go into too much detail here.<br />
<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Pants</span></h2>
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The pants seemed pretty easy so I started with the pants. I turned a pair of my khakis inside out and studied it very carefully. I used the khakis as my model for making the pattern. What I basically did is tape a bunch of pieces of paper together, lay the pair of khakis on top and traced as close I could for the front and back of the leg. You need one pattern for the front and one for the back of the leg. Since the two legs should be made the same, you can use the pattern for both legs. That means in total you will need two fronts and two backs totaling four pieces of fabric when cut out.<br />
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A couple of things to point out for the pants: there is a high waistband on the pants and the bottom is flared out to make it seem fuller when being tucked into the boots. I don't believe that there is any sort of clasp or button for the top of the waistband in the reference images so that's how I made it.<br />
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The fabric is folded in half at this point so I can trace once to cut out two pieces. I pinned the two layers together so they wouldn't shift when I cut them out. Make sure to use sharp scissors (one of the most important tools when doing textile work).<br />
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Of course you should do all the sewing on the inside and then flip it inside out.<br />
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I didn't really take many pictures of the sewing process of the pants since it's pretty straight forward. Just sew along a straight line. I think the most tricky part was the zipper since I've never done it before. I don't have much advice other than to do some research (there's probably some good videos out there).<br />
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Here in this image of the front of the pants you can see that I flared out the pants toward the bottom for where it would tuck into the boots.<br />
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<img alt="" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7080/6861468326_20f7a6216a_z.jpg" /></div>
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Just a view from the back.<br />
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<img alt="" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7105/7007585435_a5ec227767_z.jpg" /></div>
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Trying to show that I put a pocket in the back right so I can keep my wallet there.<br />
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I used a pair of boxers for the pockets. The material for boxers is very similar to what's actually used to line the pockets of the khakis I had. I just studied the khakis thoroughly to come up with a way to make the pockets.<br />
<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Butt Cape</span></h2>
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This is probably the easiest part of the uniform since it's just two trapezoids stitched together with another rectangle of fabric on top. Draft the butt cape such that it's longer in the bottom compared to the top. This is called an "A-line" and is supposed to be more flattering for the figure.<br />
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The fabric is still folded in half and I used the same method where I pinned the two layers together along where I need to cut to make sure the fabric doesn't shift around too much when cutting it.<br />
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<img alt="" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7104/7007585655_d4984b1d29_z.jpg" /></div>
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The trapezoids cut out.<br />
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<img alt="" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7227/6861469104_a3a5089fa3_z.jpg" /></div>
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This is what it looks like sitting next to each other. I don't really have another image because there's not that much to show. I sewed the two panels for each half together such that I had a left and right half that was each 2 layers of fabric thick. I then added bias tape all the way around (except for at the top and a bit down the middle where the two halves would come together anyways). After that I just stitched the two halves together.<br />
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The original fabric I was going to use for the belt part was a satin fabric that was silver but I ended up going with some other gray cotton fabric since it's easier to work with.<br />
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This is the cotton fabric that I ended up using. The color looks a bit weird in this picture but it's gray.<br />
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<img alt="" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7074/6861473524_ddaaf5798e_z.jpg" /></div>
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I didn't have access to my sewing machine for the belt part so I had to do it by hand. It's really easy if you have a machine. I added some medium weight interfacing so the belt would stay flatter. The belt should start at one side of the waist, go all the way around and overlap across most of the front. The placement of the two buttons in the front should be lined up as much as possible with the edge of the butt cape in the front where it goes down. There is also a thicker line of trim that goes down the front and ends with a square that also has a button. There is a triangle in the back with the base of the triangle on top and the tip touching where the butt cape begins to split. You can see the triangle in this image of the butt cape from the back.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Jacket</span></h2>
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By far the toughest part of the entire project. It's shaped like a box so it doesn't need to be that tight towards the bottom. It only goes down to just past the belly button and should not go down to the hips. The left panel folds over the right. The left panel goes diagonally across the front with a rectangle that folds down in the front. Roy Mustang wears a white dress shirt underneath.<br />
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The sleeves being drafted. The left side shows the base lines that I used to draw the curves that would be the final pattern on the right.<br />
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The two patterns on the top are for the back of the jacket.<br />
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This shows the front left panel chalked onto the fabric. I had to draw the collar and sleeve area over a few times.<br />
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It's hard to see but I have the pattern traced onto the interfacing here. This is the medium weight interfacing which I used on the entire front of the jacket. No interfacing on the back.<br />
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Interfacing cut out. I used fusible interfacing which means that you can iron it on. I interfaced the layer of fabric that would be closest to the body when worn. This means that in order from closest to the body would be: fabric, interfacing, gap, fabric. This way it will look more natural when worn. If you have interfacing directly on the layer that's seen on the outside it will appear very stiff and unnatural.<br />
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Inside view of the back of the jacket.<br />
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Inside view of the front of the jacket.<br />
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Inside view of the front of the jacket with the left panel folded down.<br />
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Outside view of the back of the jacket.<br />
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Outside view of the front of the jacket.<br />
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I didn't show the pieces being sewn together since it's just straight lines.<br />
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I think this was the cuff although now I'm not totally sure why it was cut on the bias.<br />
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I was in a rush so there's a lot of step by step pictures missing. I attached the sleeves after much frustration. One of the tricks that someone used online was to sew on the inside of the sleeve cap with the entire sleeve through. It's hard to describe so just look up some videos. Sleeves are quite tricky so just go slow and keep checking where you are. The collar was really straight forward to attach. I used heavy interfacing on both the collar and the cuffs. Everything had bias tape added to the edge (it's easier to add them to the collar and cuffs <b>before</b> attaching to the jacket). You should also sew the epaulet into the seam between the jacket and the sleeve when you're sewing the sleeve on since it's easier than trying to sew it on later. If you're going to be a Colonel make sure you have 3 stars and a round button at the end. I saw a few people that had incorrect rank information.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Accessories</span></h2>
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Speaking of rank information, Roy Mustang has two collar pins on the right collar and a bar of ribbons that sits on his left breast. His right side has the cord that wraps around his shoulder (going under the epaulet) and connects to another length of cord by a T connector sitting under his arm. This connects to a piece of metal that loops into a ring on his right chest.<br />
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I made all the collar pins myself out of an aluminum can using this tutorial I found on "<a href="http://www.atomicshrimp.com/st/content/drink_can_tinwork">Drink Can Tinwork</a>." The tutorial shows a small decorative box being made but it was a perfect method for making the collar pins. I actually saw the tutorial just days before the convention.<br />
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A regular soft drink can. I grabbed this from the recycling bin at school so it was totally free.<br />
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Cut the top and bottom off.<br />
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After cutting down the side you now have a flat piece of aluminum.<br />
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I found a good image of the design on the pin and drew it out on a piece of paper. I then lay the paper directly over the aluminum and traced down really hard. Make sure you have something underneath so you don't ruin the table (I used a piece of cardboard from a cereal box). If you trace hard enough you can remove the paper and just trace over the design a few more times. Since the entire image is raised, I had to "shade in" everything by using a crosshatching technique where I scribbled in straight lines across the entire design one way, then switched directions and repeated. I did this from a total of 3-4 directions.<br />
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The bar pin has a circle with what looks pretty close to a Star of David inside. The right side of the pin is a rectangle that has 9 vertical lines inside.<br />
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If you scribe really hard the sheet of aluminum will bend right there, making it easy to just snap it straight across. You can see the hand drawn image that I mentioned earlier.<br />
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The finished collar pins. I attached them using hot glue to a safety pin so I could attach them to the collar. The small rectangular pin actually popped off pretty quickly at one point when I accidentally hit it moving my shoulder. I found that one way to attach it is to leave some aluminum that you can fold behind so it forms a channel. This way you can hot glue a flat piece of plastic to the safety pin that will slide into the channel. You can push the top and bottom aluminum tab in the back down so it'll clamp onto the rectangular piece holding the safety pin in. There's a lot of ways you can attach it so just find a method that works for you.<br />
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I made the rank bar using ribbon and plastic from a yogurt container. I cut out a piece of plastic and bent it by hand until it would stay relatively flat. I then hot glued sections of ribbon to it. I hot glued one end of the ribbon to the back, wrapped it around the front and then hot glued it again in the back.<br />
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All of the ribbon was the same width, 3/8" wide. I used grosgrain ribbon since it's similar to actual military ribbon material. There are four colors - green, white, red, and yellow. Each row is 8 ribbon widths wide.<br />
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Top row: 2G, 1W, 2R, 1Y, 2W<br />
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Bottom row: 2Y, 2W, 2G, 2R<br />
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The back shows that I attached the two rows together using three plastic pieces hot glued to it. This way there is still some flexibility to the entire piece but it holds together pretty well.<br />
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A safety pin was also hot glued to the back to allow for attachment to the jacket.<br />
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Closeup of the collar pins.<br />
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Closeup of the rank badge.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Boots</span></h2>
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Try to find some that go about halfway up your shin. Don't get military boots since those are usually lace up. I found a pair of black boots for $10 at the local thrift store.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Gloves</span></h2>
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Use white cotton gloves. There are some gloves out there that are fancy and have ribbed ares running on the back of the hand. Don't get those since Roy Mustang's gloves are flat and smooth on the back. The Alchemy symbol on the back of the glove is the Alchemy circle that was passed down to him by his mentor, Riza's father. There's a lot of images out there of what the circle on his glove looks like.<br />
<h2>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Final Result</span></h2>
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A picture of me testing everything out.<br />
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<i>If you have any questions on anything feel free to ask. That way I can add more information to this if necessary. I might also be able to provide more images if anyone needs a more detailed view of something.</i>pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com47tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-62556770947491803162010-12-25T14:48:00.003-05:002012-06-28T19:00:41.034-04:00Cosplay – Get ready for Fullmetal Alchemist<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://images1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20090608145008/fma/images/8/8b/Roy_Mustang_7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="http://images1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20090608145008/fma/images/8/8b/Roy_Mustang_7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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First off, Merry Christmas everyone!<br />
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Like a lot of people out there I'm spending my much needed break doing something to give me a break from all the studying of the last semester. A few months ago I got asked to join a Fullmetal Alchemist group with a few friends and I kind of put it on the back burner since I didn't really have the time to work on it while school was going on. It was suggested that I go as Roy Mustang since I "have the hair for him." That's totally fine with me since he's my favorite character out of the whole series. I find both Ed and Al to be a bit annoying at times. Don't get me wrong - I loved the story; I just found their characters grating at certain points. On the other hand Mustang always keeps his cool and also who doesn't like playing with fire?<br />
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I'm taking pictures throughout the construction process so once I get everything done I'll put together a more thorough write up of the process. I'm taking a lot of cues from "And Sewing is Half the Battle" site as well as reading about general sewing tips. One of the keys to doing a good job with any project is to do your research. I've spent much of the past week on research and only a day or two on actual construction. I'm done with the pants after much struggling with attaching the zipper. As for fabric, I found some nice <b>royal blue</b> bottomweight fabric from <a href="http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/productdetail.jsp?pageName=search&flag=true&PRODID=prd26099" target="_blank">Jo-ann</a> (they call it <b>Canvas Target</b>). It's actually 30% off right now, but you can find a 40% or 50% off coupon for even more savings.pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-78177475455784183802010-01-23T15:41:00.003-05:002012-06-29T01:49:56.630-04:00Strider Hiryu Cosplay – WIP 4So it's been a while since I posted any update on the cosplay progress, but I have in fact been diligently working on it. Since last time I have been mostly working on adding many many layers of papier mache to the belt as well as making everything else such as the grappling hook with accompanying sheath. I also adjusted (had to resew it) the shoulder straps so the horizontal part across the back would be up higher.<br />
<h3>
Cypher Sword</h3>
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I was not completely happy with how the cypher sword turned out from before since I could still see some of the wood grain on the blade near the hilt. I put on a few layers of gesso on the entire sword including the large block-like hilt. After layers of gesso I then proceeded to sand the entire thing using a nail block (yes, the ones found in the cosmetic aisle of the store) and then wet sand with 400 grit sandpaper.<br />
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The gesso actually becomes easier to sand when using water; I just needed to constantly wipe down all the surfaces. After this I primed the entire thing using gray Automotive primer and then coated it with about 3 layers of the metallic paint again.<br />
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My biggest mistake was at this step. During the third coat I thought the paint coming from the can wasn't going to be flat enough when dry so I sprayed a bit more on in hopes that it would self-level. At this point I noticed that I had put so much paint on there that it was starting to run down the thin edge of the blade. I ended up having to sand down one entire side of the blade, re-gesso it and do the whole painting of that side again. The second time I learned to just spray one layer and walk away no matter what I thought about it. This resulted in a nice smooth finish without any problems.<br />
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<h3>
Belt</h3>
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The belt had about 7-10 layers of papier mache painstakingly applied to it. I had said before that I wanted to use magnets for the belt so I ended up cutting the belt in two places and used a pin vise to drill out holes for magnets.<br />
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<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7257/7463661692_4a1640d2f2_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7257/7463661692_4a1640d2f2_z.jpg" /></a><br />
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I used neodymium magnets from K&J Magnetics (Grade N50, 5.4mm x 4.5mm disc magnets). These magnets are very strong and will not hold with just duct tape so I had to add two layers of papier mache on top of that to make sure they would stay.<br />
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I've left off a lot of detail about the trial and error into constructing the area where the two parts of the belt attach and even now it's not completely perfect. The entire thing was covered in gesso which is where it stands right now.<br />
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<b>[UPDATE]</b> I would not recommend the above method as the magnets were able to tear through the duct tape and paper mache after a few hours of walking around at the convention.This rendered the belt nonfunctional because the two halves would not hold together.</div>
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<h3>
Grappling Hook + Sheath</h3>
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The grappling hook was made to be a static object, not like the one in the game that is constructed of three pieces to extend. The compressed version looks like a dagger with a curved hand guard. I made the dagger using 4 layers of cardboard duct taped together with a piece that extended into a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe. The hilt was made using pieces of cardboard in the shape of a box.<br />
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The hand guard was made using a piece of aluminum foil since it would be able to hold its shape fairly well. The entire thing (grappling hook + hand guard) was covered with a few layers of papier mache. This was then covered in gesso, primed, and painted using metallic paint.<br />
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The end of the handle for both the grappling hook and the cypher were made using a cap for 3/4" PVC pipe that was cut and placed on.<br />
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The open end was covered with a piece of cardboard and then coated with gesso. The handles were wrapped with brown ribbon from Michael's. They are currently secured using scotch tape looped to crate double sided tape. I just simply wrapped the handle in one direction with a constant diagonal motion.<br />
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The sheath was made using cardboard using the dagger as a template for size reference. This was also covered in papier mache and gesso.<br />
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<h3>
Wrappings</h3>
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I initially had some white cloth from the discount bin at the fabric store, but it will be hard for it to stay in place when I use it to wrap my forearms, legs, and feet. I will be getting some gauze from the store that will stick to itself instead.<br />
<h3>
To Do<br /> </h3>
<ul>
<li>Paint the sheath for the grappling belt</li>
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<li>Paint the belt</li>
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<li>Make zori sandals</li>
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<li>Buy some gauze</li>
</ul>
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Here's a picture of the final cosplay:<br />
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</div>pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-14084572563098013342010-01-05T15:27:00.003-05:002012-06-28T20:20:12.683-04:00Strider Hiryu Cosplay – WIP 3I constructed the base for the belt last night using cardboard and duct tape. I ordered some neodymium (rare earth) magnets to be used for various parts of my props.<br />
<h3>
Belt</h3>
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I took a look at all the reference pictures along with what other people have done for their cosplays. From what I can tell it seems like the belt is a series of connected boxes, the purpose I'm guessing is to store things. I decided to do a total of 14 segments to the belt. I also plan on making two functional compartments to carry around my cell phone and stuff from my wallet. My waist is 28 inches so this construction will not work for everyone. Based on my waist size, I made the boxes to be 2.5 inches square on the face and a depth of 1.5 inches.<br />
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I cut out all of the necessary pieces out of corrugated cardboard to make sure it's strong enough (corrugated is significantly thicker and stronger than the stuff for cereal boxes). I cut out a total of 28 2.5 inch squares and 56 1.5 x 2.5 inch side pieces.<br />
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While watching various TV shows I assembled all 14 boxes using duct tape. Since I wanted to have 2 functional compartments and each of the boxes are fairly small, I will be combining two boxes for each of the functional compartments. Initial testing shows my cell phone can fit, but my wallet is too large. I should still be able to put the stuff from my wallet in there, just the actual wallet is slightly too large. I connected the remaining 10 boxes into two sets of 5 and then temporarily connected everything together into one chain to do a test fit. It ended up being just enough to fit around my waist, but in all the pictures it is actually lower on one side. I ended up constructing one more box to add on.<br />
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The hard part was getting the shape of the entire belt to be set and not have it flop around. I put the belt around my wait and placed strips of duct tape around the outside to secure the shape. Then I layered duct tape on the top and bottom and then covered the entire thing in one more layer of duct tape. </div>
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At this point I realized that I would have trouble making the lid for the compartment hinged since it's a curved section (pretty much all the sections are curved so there's no way around this). I debated for a while whether or not to use magnets to attach the lid and have the entire piece be able to come off, but my main concern was whether it would destroy the magnetic strip of credit cards and similar cards. I found some neodymium (rare earth) magnets online from K&J Magnetics that would be small enough such that they are strong at small distances, but would have a small magnetic field at even an inch away (magnetic fields drop with respect to distance squared). The price of the magnets was holding me up since I didn't want to spend too much more, but I decided I would have to have at least some magnets since the belt is rigid and I will not be able to put it on if it doesn't come apart in two halves.</div>
<h3>
Fabric Paint</h3>
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Spent about an hour painting the 飛 character onto the shirt, which took about 6 coats since it's red paint onto blue fabric. I used Scribbles 3D paint from Michaels which cost me about $1 for an 1 oz bottle. Hand brushing it yields much smoother results than squeezing it from the bottle in my opinion. I first traced the design and then cut it out of paper. I pinned the design to the fabric along with a piece of cardboard under it to prevent the paint from bleeding to the back of the shirt. I then used the fabric paint straight from the bottle but brushed it on instead of using the applicator bottle. After drawing in the outline using the pinned cutout, I removed the cutout and painted within the lines. The first layer or two looks crappy since it doesn't cover well enough. After 3-4 layers it actually looked a lot more like a true red. The trick is to paint in thin layers. By the time I finished the entire design for one coat the first part was ready for a second coat. By going in the same order every time I ensured that it was dry before the next coat.<br />
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Full drying time is listed as 24 hours so I'm leaving it overnight before I attempt to do anything to the fabric.</div>
<h3>
To Do<br /> </h3>
<ul>
<li>Make the grappling hook/dagger thing along with the holster for it</li>
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<li>Finish the construction of the belt</li>
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<li>Gesso and paint everything</li>
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<li>Probably will redo the sword even though it's already painted (not completely happy with how it turned out so I might try to gesso it since I didn't do that the first time)</li>
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<li>Make the sandals</li>
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Still quite a few things left to do so I hope I can get it all done in time.pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-5315372135704027412009-12-30T18:34:00.003-05:002012-06-28T18:40:04.478-04:00Strider Hiryu Cosplay – WIP 2This is a shorter update as I didn't do as much.<br/><h3>Arm Straps</h3><br/>I got the arm straps done with the help of my mom. We used premade bias tape from Hancock Fabric (like Joann). The specific information is that it was 1" wide brown bias tape for quilting. This means that it is a bit thicker than some of the other bias tape there. The width of the bias tape was pretty much spot on and at a cost of under $2 for 3 yards that's not too bad. We ended up having to get a second package to finish it.<br/><br/>Going along the lines of planning it out first, we happened to have a piece of ribbon from a gift that someone gave us for Christmas that just happened to be the right length to measure everything. The straps consist of one long piece across the entire back, two loops from that straight piece over the shoulder, and then two loops that go around the outside of the arms.<br/><br/>The actual sewing was pretty straightforward since we just had to stitch the sides of the bias tape together. We were able to use the entire 3 yard length for everything excluding the loops around the outside of the arms. The forward loops and the straight back were stitched together with the tape folded over at a 45 degree angle.<br/><br/>In the reference images you can see two buckles in the front where the outside loops attach to the forward loop. We decided to make this an actual functional loop that would allow for adjustment of the outside loop. The buckles were bought at Hancock for about $3 and it was put together much like a shoulder bag strap.<br/><br/>I think the straps came out pretty nice and from a distance it actually looks a bit like leather.pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-23235426224582107682009-12-30T09:21:00.003-05:002012-06-29T01:48:47.930-04:00Strider Hiryu Cosplay – WIP 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Colossalcon this past summer was my first anime convention and I had a lot of fun so I am planning on attending Ohayocon 10 at the end of Jan, 2010. One of the largest aspects of anime conventions is cosplay. For those who do not know, cosplay is dressing up as some character from a show, game, movie, or anything else. Basically people pick characters they like and dress up like them.<br />
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My planned cosplay is Strider Hiryu from Marvel vs. Capcom, an arcade fighting game a friend introduced me to back in high school. I only played the first one so I will be basing the cosplay on the character design from the first one.<br />
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The bulk of the clothing has been completed since that's what I worked on when I went home for break. My mom helped out a lot since she has a sewing machine and a good amount of experience with it. The woodworking was done by myself with a few tips from my stepfather. This is my first time doing any sort of cosplay so there is certainly a lot that I can improve, but I see this mostly as a learning opportunity. Hopefully it will allow me to pick up a lot more skills like sewing, woodworking, and painting.<br />
<h3>
Pants</h3>
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The pants were probably the easiest part of the clothing. We first watched a video on Youtube to get an idea of how other people made the pattern. Then we took a pair of pajamas, turned it inside out and took a look at the shape of the front and back piece of cloth. We decided the best way to approach it would be to cut four pieces of fabric, one for each leg front and back. The hardest part about it was to put curvature at the top for it to conform better to the body as well as account for a few inches extra when sitting down.<br />
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As far as stitching everything together, the two halves of the front were joined as well as the two parts for the back. After that, the front and back were joined and then all the edges were hemmed to make it look better cosmetically as well as prevent the edge from fraying. An elastic band was put in to serve as a waistband.<br />
<h3>
Shirt/Vest</h3>
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The shirt looks like it is similar to the Japanese "gi" except that there are no sleeves. Unfortunately I did not bring my kendo gi and hakama home so there was no really good template to have on hand. We ended up using a T-shirt as the base template and constructing it out of a total of 3 pieces - one for the back and one for each side of the front. The right half will fold over to the left first and then the left flap will fold over to the right. The left side will be the one that will be most visible when completed.<br />
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One of the tough parts was finding the right curvature for the two halves to make the V-cut in the front look right. We first used newspaper to make the pattern and to get an idea of what the finished product will look like.<br />
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The sewing of the three parts was relatively straightforward. The one additional detail is the addition of approximately one inch bias tape on the collar and around the edge of the two halves of the front. Bias tape needs to be cut at a 45 degree diagonal in relation to the fibers of the cloth. The other tricky part was the sleeve since it shouldn't be too short or too long.<br />
<h3>
Cypher Sword</h3>
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Strider's signature weapon is his cypher called the Falchion. The cypher is triangular in shape but fairly long, about the length of the legs. There are two handles, much like a tonfa. I had great difficulty in getting any good reference pictures for this and spent a lot of time deliberating over how to make it. I sketched up a rough design in Solidworks but when it finally came time to make it I decided to redraw it by hand. I settled on using the sprite sheet from the original Marvel vs. Capcom as my base reference.<br />
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I am using some leftover wood we have (I believe it's from when we finished our basement). The wood is 3/4" thick whitewood, which comes from spruce and is similar to pine but a little less dense and is also softer. The handles are constructed from PVC pipe and I am using a T shape connector at the center. There are pictures with the shorter handle (the one perpendicular to the handle in line with the blade) both in the same plane as the edge of the blade as well as on the plane of the flat of the blade. I will be going with the handle in the plane of the edge of the blade as it is the logical way for him to execute the attacks shown in the game.<br />
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The handle was cut partway with the table saw and finished off with a hand saw and chisel. This is becuase the table saw cuts more of the wood at the bottom as opposed to the surface which is only important when not making a complete through cut. The handle was cut to fit inside 3/4" PVC pipe (inside diameter) so I had to file down the corners of the handle to make it rounder (basic trigonometry in action). The PVC size was chosen because of the maximum thickness of the wood.<br />
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After drawing the design of the blade onto the surface of the wood, I
cut a scrap piece of wood first that had the same angle as the angle
that the blade is shaped. This will allow me to still use the guide rail
on the table saw I'm using. The problem is that the angle is very
shallow so even with the piece of wood and the guide rail it was still
difficult to get the cut accurate. I more or less free-handed the second
side and ended up going in about 1/16 of an inch about halfway down.
It's not too noticeable but when I compare the two sides I can see where
it's at. The faces were also cut at an angle to make it more like an
actual blade, but I kept about 1/4" thickness even at the edge to make
sure it would be structurally sound.<br />
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The next step was to cover the handle in Gorilla Glue and then let it sit for about 10 minutes. The glue will expand some during this time. During that time I secured the PVC handle to the T connector using PVC primer and cement. If you use that be sure to act quickly since it sets in about 30 seconds. After inserting the Gorilla Glue coated handle into the PVC+connector, I let it sit overnight. The next morning the glue had expanded to fill the inside of the pipe, ensuring a secure bond.<br />
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I had a lot of difficulty with building up the trapezoidal part covering the connector on the weapon. I first cut out the shape I wanted using cereal box cardboard and attached about 3 layers on each side with some Bondo to help fill the space since the connector sits at a larger thickness compared to the actual blade. This was then covered up using papier mache with a mixture of flour and water as the glue. I applied about 10 layers of papier mache using a hair dryer to speed up the process and allowing me to do more than just one layer a day. <br />
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After getting the rough shape I tried to use some plastic wood (a type of wood putty) to cover the outside and provide a smooth surface to paint on. The wood putty did not go on as well as I had hoped and it didn't bond very well since it would just break off when I tried to sand the edges.<br />
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After getting it as smooth as I could I covered it with an additional layer of the papier mache glue, which actually self leveled some. The entire thing was then primed using Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer (same stuff I use for my models) and then sanded using 100 and 400 grit sandpaper. Then the whole thing was primed again and wet sanded using 400 grit sandpaper.<br />
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Finally I covered it using Rust-Oleum metallic spray paint in a silver color. It's shiny, but not quite a mirror finish like chrome or polished silver. I'm not completely satisfied with how it turned out and might have to repaint it later but for now I need to work on all the other props.<br />
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<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><b>To Do</b></span><br />
<ul><br />
<li>Paint red kanji onto shirt</li>
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<li>Make grappling hook and holder on back</li>
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<li>Make the brown straps for his arms</li>
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<li>Make the white belt</li>
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<li>Tabi socks</li>
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<li>Sandals</li>
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<li>White bandages for arms, ankles, and feet</li>
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<li>Red cloth for wrapping waist and for the face mask + scarf</li>
</ul>pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-13174365088871350252009-05-27T19:56:00.003-04:002012-06-29T01:42:23.385-04:001/8 Seras Victoria Completed<div id="allsizes-photo">
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Whew, after lots of work I'm finally done. My first figure kit and I think I did pretty well for a first attempt. Hopefully I'll be able to continue learning lots of new things and get better.<br />
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</div>pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-87961851739931220152009-05-26T14:36:00.003-04:002012-06-29T01:48:17.292-04:001/8 Seras Victoria WIP 2This is going to be the last update before I post some final pictures.<br />
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Since the last WIP I masked off the leg and painted the boots and gloves a brown color. Masking was done using mostly Tamiya tape. For some areas I made my own thin tape with a fresh Xacto blade and a ruler. The belt was painted black and then the buckle was painted in gold. The belt was masked off and then the clothes were painted using yellow. The hair was painted using just a lighter yellow. Finally, the band on the right sleeve was painted using grey.<br />
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After this all the details were hand painted. These details include the buttons on the clothes, the trim for the collar, the Hellsing badge on the left breast and any minor touchups that were needed. The face was pretty tough, especially the eyes since it is a 1/8 figure and everything is pretty small. I was using a #0 brush but maybe I need to get ones even smaller in order to get the small details.<br />
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The base was painted using Delta Creamcoats and Tamiya acrylics. I first used a thinned black to make the light grey stones, then mixed in some Delta Creamcoat browns and oranges to achieve various other colors. After this I used a very thinned out Tamiya black to make a wash and to fill in the gaps between stones. The gaps between cobblestones on the street is usually not stark white (the color of the plaster) simply due to dirt and grime.<br />
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I still need to flat coat the face and then use future to make areas such as the eyes and lips more glossy in contrast to the rest of the face. After that I'm planning on building a light box so I can take some good final pictures.<br />
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<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><b>Colors Used:</b></span><br />
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<li><b>Yellow</b> (clothes) - Tamiya Flat Yellow</li>
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<li><b>Light Yellow</b> (hair) - Tamiya Flat Yellow + Tamiya Flat White</li>
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<li><b>Brown</b> (boots and glove) - Tamiya Flat Earth + Tamiya Flat Black</li>
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<li><b>Red</b> (badge) - Tamiya Flat Red</li>
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<li><b>Gold</b> (buckle) - Tamiya Flat Gold</li>
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<li><b>Grey</b> (band on sleeve) - Tamiya Flat White + Tamiya Flat Black</li>
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<li><b>Black</b> (belt) - Tamiya Flat Black</li>
</ul>pandamajikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02464791607625804370noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843012823062069891.post-18844088412145442322009-05-19T21:53:00.003-04:002012-06-29T01:47:58.919-04:001/8 Seras Victoria WIP 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is a lot of firsts for me - my first resin kit, my first work in prog, and I'm also trying a lot of new techniques. I've only built two Gundam kits before this, the 1/100 HG Tallgeese III and the MG God Gundam. I airbrushed both but I am still trying to learn a lot of new things since I was not completely satisfied with how they turned out. I got interested in figure kits after seeing FilmMkr's works on the FichtenFoo Forums.<br />
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This particular kit is the 1/8 Seras Victoria from Hellsing and was purchased from e2046 about a year ago. I have been working on this on and off for the past year, but did not really have much time to work on it due to school. I finally got around to sitting down and working on this kit quite a bit in the last week or so since finals just got done.<br />
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It's a pretty simple kit which is why I chose this one to start with. I first soaked all the parts in a degreaser (PurplePower equivalent) and then scrubbed it with some SoftScrub. The hardest part was the cleanup of the "wing," which is what occupied most of my time during the cleanup. I primed, sanded, fixed defects, and then repeated the process several times.<br />
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Since this was my first resin kit I had some trouble with the pinning of the kit, especially where the arm connects to the body because it would tend to rotate on me so I had to have two pins. I also had trouble getting the head to stay in the position I wanted, but I managed to solve this when I drilled a larger hole for the pin and used a 3/32" brass rod instead of paper clips.<br />
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I first painted the wing and used straight Tamiya Acrylic Flat Black. It came out pretty well. I had wanted to try to emulate the pearly black luster that FilmMkr got on one of his newer kits, Daphne's Surprise, but didn't want to spend the extra money on PearlEx powders. I found Delta Creamcoat sells this Pearl stuff so I tried that but it was really hard to get a good even effect so after doing a test I decided to not do it on the actual wing.<br />
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I clearcoated the wing with some Future and then after about half an hour tried to lightly sand it to get it smoother, but it started to take some paint off. After trying to handbrush some black on I realized that the alcohol used to thin the paint was reacting with the paint already on the part and in the end I decided to just dunk the piece in degreaser and repaint it. This time I waited a full day to let the Future cure and then rubbed some Tamiya Finishing Compound on it to get it smoother.<br />
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Next up was painting the flesh tones. I did not want to spend too much money all at once so I opted to go with Delta Creamcoats for the skin tone. I used a formula from GKJapan.com:<br />
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3 parts white<br />
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Using that ratio it came out a bit too orangy for me so I then added a bit more white and parchment to lighten it up a bit since Seras is a vampire after all!<br />
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After spraying a few coats of this I used chalk pastels to shade the kit. I got some Faber-Castell chalk pastels at a local art store and they work great. I just followed what <a href="http://fichtenfoo.net/forum/index.php?topic=2964.0">FilmMkr does</a> and rubbed some onto a sheet of sandpaper and then tapped the pastels into the areas I wanted to shade. I then blew off the pastels and blended it away from the applied area. It took a few applications to get the color to build up. After the application I sealed it with a coat of Future to prevent the shading from getting wiped off when I mask it.<br />
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Then I made a box frame out of some cardboard and poured plaster of paris into it about an inch high. I remember FichtenFoo making a <a href="http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/in-progress-%C2%BB-lighthouse-standoff/">stone lighthouse</a> using this method and thought that if he got good results I should just go ahead and try to emulate that.<br />
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After the plaster dried I sanded the top a bit to make it flatter so the figure would be able to stand flat on the base. I then used scribing tools to carve out a cobblestone pattern. I plan on painting it with some acrylics.<br />
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